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Look Fournales
- Thread starter mk one
- Start date
Great nice condition Mk3 fork, and including the rare (non-ISO) disc tab fitting, but...
It is missing the clamp-on canti mounts and a few bolts, but far more importantly, it's unusable without the specific integrated steerer tube and the screw-on top section that the stem clamps to:
This is a Mk2, but the arrangement is the same.
It's not easy to lose this part, as it is press fitted into the bottom yoke, that is included
Could probably get something machined to work, but it's far from being a complete usable fork.
All the best,
It is missing the clamp-on canti mounts and a few bolts, but far more importantly, it's unusable without the specific integrated steerer tube and the screw-on top section that the stem clamps to:
This is a Mk2, but the arrangement is the same.
It's not easy to lose this part, as it is press fitted into the bottom yoke, that is included
Could probably get something machined to work, but it's far from being a complete usable fork.
All the best,
syncrosfan
Senior Retro Guru
That is quite a bit of money without the steering tube assembly which renders the fork useless and any old 1 1/8" steering tube won't do. Love those forks but that price is a hard nope... If it were cheaper and the seller would post to the US I might take a punt and see if I can use some spare parts I have from a Mk.1 version of those (with a broken upper linkage) and make it functional again... the steerer tube assemblies do look very similar. The world needs more Fournales forks in the wild.
@syncrosfan
OK, swapping out some Mk1 parts will work.
The Mk1 steerer is compatible with the Mk3 yokes, but would need pressing into the Mk3 yoke, rather than simply swapping yoke/steerer units, since the Mk3 yoke itself is different.
Mk1, narrow, 2-bolts. Mk3 wider, with a bolt-through + nut:
The press fit into the both yokes is the same, along with the screw-on top section (My Mk1 has been cut down).
The Mk3 steerer is machined with a step down below the top bearing seat, but that will just save some weight, the contact points are the same diameter:
All the best,
OK, swapping out some Mk1 parts will work.
The Mk1 steerer is compatible with the Mk3 yokes, but would need pressing into the Mk3 yoke, rather than simply swapping yoke/steerer units, since the Mk3 yoke itself is different.
Mk1, narrow, 2-bolts. Mk3 wider, with a bolt-through + nut:
The press fit into the both yokes is the same, along with the screw-on top section (My Mk1 has been cut down).
The Mk3 steerer is machined with a step down below the top bearing seat, but that will just save some weight, the contact points are the same diameter:
All the best,
