bikeworkshop
Senior Retro Guru
That redundant left hand shifter is perfect for dropper post operation, or even a cable- actuated bottom bracket dynamo?
Lipstick on a pig? Kona Jake upgrades
- Thread starter moonlite
- Start date
moonlite
Kona Fan
That redundant left hand shifter is perfect for dropper post operation, or even a cable- actuated bottom bracket dynamo?
Cor -- never thought of that! I've never used a dropper -- I've always worried about extra weight but friends tell me they're indispensable.
bikeworkshop
Senior Retro Guru
Once you've got a dropper, you won't stop banging on about it
- when you stop at the cafe
...pssstch...
Off you get, without all that roadie nonsense of hopping off the saddle before you come to a halt
Been through similar with chain-sets.
Found a road triple to be sort of OK, but not really perfect. 130 / 74 BCD felt limiting and the road FDs pretty weak.
Then I tried a compact road double, and got caught up with the fuss trying to get a smaller 110 BCD outer ring. It was better. Think it was a FSA Vero or something like that.
Then went down the MTB hole. I always use square taper, so could actually compress the q-factor and chain-line unlike that more modern XT one - that is probably hardwired with at least a 50mm chain-line, whereas you need something like a 45 - 47mm depending on your rear spacing / hub. Retro MTB cranks are interesting for these builds. I've successfully mated MTB FDs with STIs using an alternative cable pinch position closer to the anchor bolt.
Also tried single up front using cheap out of fashion DH chain rings with the 104 BCD LX M569 (one of the last Shimano square taper with a reasonable Q-factor and chain-line). There's some interesting choices like 36, 38, 40 teeth and they can be flipped for either middle or outer ring position. Personally think the narrow / wide stuff (which I have never used) would be overkill for this. https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads...n-xt-m739-4-bolt-crankset.415584/post-3138371
Found a road triple to be sort of OK, but not really perfect. 130 / 74 BCD felt limiting and the road FDs pretty weak.
Then I tried a compact road double, and got caught up with the fuss trying to get a smaller 110 BCD outer ring. It was better. Think it was a FSA Vero or something like that.
Then went down the MTB hole. I always use square taper, so could actually compress the q-factor and chain-line unlike that more modern XT one - that is probably hardwired with at least a 50mm chain-line, whereas you need something like a 45 - 47mm depending on your rear spacing / hub. Retro MTB cranks are interesting for these builds. I've successfully mated MTB FDs with STIs using an alternative cable pinch position closer to the anchor bolt.
Also tried single up front using cheap out of fashion DH chain rings with the 104 BCD LX M569 (one of the last Shimano square taper with a reasonable Q-factor and chain-line). There's some interesting choices like 36, 38, 40 teeth and they can be flipped for either middle or outer ring position. Personally think the narrow / wide stuff (which I have never used) would be overkill for this. https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads...n-xt-m739-4-bolt-crankset.415584/post-3138371
