regarding mtb tubes from japan or us or some reynolds . Tubes are not the same for roadbile and mtb , even if they are double or triple , mtb tube are reinforced vitus or reynolds with the same name for road or mtb if you check the tubing size , mtb tube have usually 0.2 to 0.3 thicker than road tubes. regarding brand , marin ,trek , commencal (not sunn very fragile) scott or giant those brands are bullet proof for mid range frame . Again just avoid alloy frame even if they are from those brands
Lightweight tubing (e.g. triple butted, competition etc) - is it more fragile?
- Thread starter tweedi
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Can I just point out that 501 is not "gaspipe" in anyway shape or form
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not strictly true as before companies brought out MTB specific tubesets, builders used whatever was to hand be it road or BMX
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2manyoranges
Old School Grand Master
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er....I'm with the large cheese.
A motor simply puts in energy in exactly the way in which the frame was designed for.
I don't think this is a 'high end versus low end' question.
Higher end tubsets are strong. Very strong. And with huge care in the design, specification and fabrication.
Towing a trailer can indeed put specific stress where it usually is not applied under cycling load, but this can cause stress fractures in any frame.
If seat-tube attached accessories then this can cause stress fractures in seat tubes above the rear tube joint.
I have had fatigue failures in frame but only on low-spec frames.
A frame failure last week:
A motor simply puts in energy in exactly the way in which the frame was designed for.
I don't think this is a 'high end versus low end' question.
Higher end tubsets are strong. Very strong. And with huge care in the design, specification and fabrication.
Towing a trailer can indeed put specific stress where it usually is not applied under cycling load, but this can cause stress fractures in any frame.
If seat-tube attached accessories then this can cause stress fractures in seat tubes above the rear tube joint.
I have had fatigue failures in frame but only on low-spec frames.
A frame failure last week:
MattiThundrrr
Kona Fan
Oh my goodness! That's a catastrophic event! At first I thought you were riding a hand cycle recumbent
El gran queso is right (isn't he always
)- As the old adage goes: Strong. Light. Cheap. Choose two... Getting a high end retro frame means you can get strong & light cheap! As long as it's not been seriously ragged or misused, which is usually fairly apparent, going for the most high-end retro frame makes sense. Just my two-pence worth...
)- As the old adage goes: Strong. Light. Cheap. Choose two... Getting a high end retro frame means you can get strong & light cheap! As long as it's not been seriously ragged or misused, which is usually fairly apparent, going for the most high-end retro frame makes sense. Just my two-pence worth...
Think we are missing the point a bit.....whilst i agree that a lightweight frame can be well built and strong for its designed use....that's not what the OP is going to do with it!
Last child seat for a top tube i fitted had a pair of "u" clamps holding it onto the top tube. An no point in the design process did anybody making a tange prestige frame consider that! Considering you can nip a frame with a front mech, a pair of u bolts done up tight enough to stop a child seat swivelling round would i guess risk seriously compromising such a thin tube.
And lgf is correct 501 has its uses.....
Last child seat for a top tube i fitted had a pair of "u" clamps holding it onto the top tube. An no point in the design process did anybody making a tange prestige frame consider that! Considering you can nip a frame with a front mech, a pair of u bolts done up tight enough to stop a child seat swivelling round would i guess risk seriously compromising such a thin tube.
And lgf is correct 501 has its uses.....
