Kona’s - best year for frame?

Thank you 😁 and the 92 Kilaueas (it came out late in 92) frame and forks became the 93 Lavadome and Cindercones frame and forks. So your getting a 93 bike but with in some eyes a nicer colour scheme and it's called a Kilauea 😊
All yours for £195 posted if i don't get cold feet and withdraw it 😂
Looks like a great bike in super condition but I need a 19 inch frame as I’m just over 6ft tall.
 
All the '93/94 range are good bikes and ride well. The Cinder Cone and Lava Dome used top end Tange tubesets and ride really nice, indeed as mentioned above they used the pre-production CC/LD frame for the introduction of the previous years Kilauea before giving it its own tubeset in '93.

As for difference in weights between '93-94 they pretty much used the same frame, the weight difference coming from different forks and components in '94.

The '94 range is also suspension corrected but running period forks on either will not noticeably affect it.
 
Looks like a great bike in super condition but I need a 19 inch frame as I’m just over 6ft tall.
You might find the 20" are a better fit.
I'm smaller and find the 20" (1997) a comfier fit and ride than my 19" (1993).
But I'd take either.

If you want the MaxOR Explosif, which really is the best of the frames, then it needs to be 1997 as that is also the best of the 3 years.
 
Another thing to consider is - do you want to build the bike with suspension or not?

Anything pre-1994(?) has geometry for rigid forks. I could be wrong on the specific year Kona started selling bikes with suspension forks, but I think it was 94 or thereabouts

Correct, it was the 1994 range where suspension "corrections" were made.
 
Another Great piece of information which guided me when I built my first "94" Kilauea.....

https://forums.mtbr.com/vintage-retro-classic/kona-kilauea-1994-a-684085.html
In the link there is a user who makes a very valid point with reads as below

There is no need to look for a 63mm fork, you would be much better off with an 80mm.

There are two problems with your current set up. Firstly the Dart is not good enough for that frame. Secondly you are running far too long a stem. A long stem paired with a long fork is a major no no.

Although the frame was designed for a 50-60mm fork, the point to bear in mind is that Kona kept exactly the same shape frames right up until the last few years. For example, a 2008 Kula Deluxe was equipped with a 100mm Reba and had the same shape frame as your Kilauea, but Kona compensated for the longer fork and slacker head angle by fitting a shorter stem and swept riser bars. The longer fork and slacker head angle makes the steering slower, a shorter stem livens it up again. It's good enough for Kona, it's good enough for you.

Very roughly the equation seems to be mm for mm in swapping stem length for fork length. i.e., if we reckon the 1994 design centred around a 120mm stem, lose 20mm of that if you fit an 80mm fork, or lose 40mm of it if you stick with a 100mm fork.

The only issue with a 100mm fork on a 94 frame would be the strength of the head tube welds. I have seen Joe@konaworld say yes it's no problem, but I've seen Tech@konaworld say no you could rip the head tube off, stick to 80mm. Partly depends on what kind of riding you do I guess, but if you hammer a 100mm fork it does create big changes in head angle as it compresses, hence Tech's concerns.

But whatever you do, get a good
quality fork!
 
For me this period of bikes ride better with rigid forks. Suspension in this era was just rubbish and that’s from someone that was an early adopter with ‘92 RC35s. I prefer Konas with a P2 fork, they are just so iconic.

I’m a sucker for late 80’s / early 90’s Splatter paint job, especially the U brake ones. Only one I’ve ever owned was a 89 Fire Mountain that I picked up 7-8 years ago for £100. Unfortunately it was too small and I sold it after a few rides. Was only 300LX group, weighed a ton and I needed chiropractic adjustment after every ride but I did love my brief affair with that one.
 

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