Hub 130 oln, alloy frame 135. Ok? PHOTOS ADDED !
- Thread starter Mike Muz
- Start date
Re:
How much effort does it take to move the dropouts in by 5mm? If it isn't that much I would have thought it was OK, it's only 2.5mm per side.
Aluminium can flex without failing, just nowhere near as much as steel and when it does fail, it does so more catastrophically than steel. I thought the issue with aluminium failing was from repeated flexing, or fatigue.
Any metallurgists here? :?
How much effort does it take to move the dropouts in by 5mm? If it isn't that much I would have thought it was OK, it's only 2.5mm per side.
Aluminium can flex without failing, just nowhere near as much as steel and when it does fail, it does so more catastrophically than steel. I thought the issue with aluminium failing was from repeated flexing, or fatigue.
Any metallurgists here? :?
Osella
Senior Retro Guru
Re:
Yes, Alu failures in terms of 'regular use' are stress riser cycles; Alu can withstand fewer stress cycles than Steel; hence the (rubbish!) about them only being 'good' for one season's racing.
In terms of wheel fitment; it's not a 5mm difference though, it's only 2.5mm per side and compared to the natural flex in the frame (for example when fitting/removing a 135 axle) it's probably not that big a deal.
There are of course a few other factors as well - if it's got box-section vs round or tapered stays for instance; and as mentioned before simply getting some spacers to 2-2.5mm per side which will sit between the outer hub face and the dropout isn't going to hurt any - provided there's sufficient axle length to fit the spacers over; which there should be. Will a tricky fit in the dropouts but nothing too much of a problem.
Yes, Alu failures in terms of 'regular use' are stress riser cycles; Alu can withstand fewer stress cycles than Steel; hence the (rubbish!) about them only being 'good' for one season's racing.
In terms of wheel fitment; it's not a 5mm difference though, it's only 2.5mm per side and compared to the natural flex in the frame (for example when fitting/removing a 135 axle) it's probably not that big a deal.
There are of course a few other factors as well - if it's got box-section vs round or tapered stays for instance; and as mentioned before simply getting some spacers to 2-2.5mm per side which will sit between the outer hub face and the dropout isn't going to hurt any - provided there's sufficient axle length to fit the spacers over; which there should be. Will a tricky fit in the dropouts but nothing too much of a problem.
Re:
Photos taken now. Added to the the first post
With a washer added either side, it slots in fine. However, there's only 3mm of axle poking out either side, with drop outs 9mm thick.
With washers added,
Without, so stays flexed inwards,
Can you see the problem? Am I overthinking this ?
Mike
Photos taken now. Added to the the first post
With a washer added either side, it slots in fine. However, there's only 3mm of axle poking out either side, with drop outs 9mm thick.
With washers added,
Without, so stays flexed inwards,
Can you see the problem? Am I overthinking this ?
Mike
mechanical_vandal
Retro Guru
Re:
IMO, reducing the length of the axle stub that sits inside the dropout is waaaay more dangerous than flexing the stays in 2.5mm each.
IMO, reducing the length of the axle stub that sits inside the dropout is waaaay more dangerous than flexing the stays in 2.5mm each.
