How would you build your ti 29er?

[ishaw]

My downsizing has started with a new frame, a lovely ti on one 29er. I wasnt intending on yet another bike, but here we are.

Initially I had intended on simply transplanting everything over from my existing carbon frame, but as there are a few challenges, paused and thought that as this will be my main bike, and for some time, take the opportunity to plan and build it once well.

The challenges/differences that make a simple transplant are:

Current 2x10 X0 gearing. New frame has no front mech routing. Shane, as whilst it would be simple to drop the front mech and shifter, my cranks are FSA k-force carbon 2x. No direct mount spider option, so should I simply run the cranks 1x or go.with something 1x specific?

Next challenge, frame has bolt through rear axle, current wheels can go that way in theory, but on one no longer stock the conversion kit for the el-guapo hubs my wheels sport. Should I try and find the kit elsewhere, or build a new set of wheels around some hope pro 2 evo guns i have, which will need new rear end caps, and spokes?

Forks are less of a challenge, as I can use the sids I have (1 1/ with a hope headset in the spares box, but should I go tapered using an external hope cup? Will I miss the alleged benefit of a tapered steerer?

Last but not least, XO vs xtr?

Ideas on a digital postcard please.

 

[james1985]

Regarding going 1x on your cranks, you would need a narrow/wide chainring for chain retention unless you are going to use a chain device.

When you say about going tapered steerer, I'm not following, if you have a straight steerer on your sids then that's what you have, then a reducer in the bottom of the head tube.

Oh, and for me, XTR all the way, its great, works beautifully and is pretty good value.

 

[ishaw]

Re:

I have options in most areas, or the option to buy. Wanting to work out what's the ideal and see if I have it (bonus).

On that topic, i forgot the option of rigid vs suspension forks,

On 1x, I'm not sure 11 or 12 is for me, so 10 or 9?

 

[james1985]

I've got a 700c gravel bike with a rigid fork, and it has made me think about trying a fully rigid 29er. I run the race bike at about 16psi anyway so they have a lot of give in them.

Regarding 1x, its down to the rider, you know how fit you are and how you will use the bike.

When I bought my M9000 groupset, I got the 11-40 xtr cassette, and I was quite happy with that on my 26er with a 32t chainring. It would cruise at 22mph and I would spin out at 26mph, so whilst being annoyingly slow if you try to drop roadies on tarmac, it was actually perfect for xc racing.
It gave a bottom gear of 21 inches and top of 76.

When I went to 29inch wheels, top went up to 84 inches! and I had to swap to a 46 cassette to get a 20 inch bottom gear.
Most people I race against are actually fit and fast, and run 34 or 36 chainrings. The only way I can think of doing that would be going 2x and having a 26/36 which would give me a 95 inch top, but realistically I will never be that fast, 28-30mph off road is more than enough for me.

At the very least I would go 10 speed so you can get an 11-42. But for me, 11 speed xtr is shifting perfection*, and my mate that has owned every generation of xtr has gone for the new 12 speed and says its even better.

*Since going 46, I used a sunrace cassette as that's what I had, and this is the only time ive nnot been totally happy with the shifting, I wont even be wearing it out, it will be replaced with shimano asap after last nights race it really annoyed me.

 

[CTK]

IMO
1 x 10 XTR (or whatever you have)
Try and find the conversion kit for your current wheels, if you cant find it then build a new set
I'd be amazed if anyone can feel the benefit of a tapered steerer
Ti post/stem/bars as much as possible because

 

[velofrog]

Re:

my tuppence worth...

It's worth going 11 speed if running 1x, XTR is fab but the cassette only gives option of 40 whereas XT gives either 42/46 which when combined with a 32 chain ring for me was perfect (with a 42 cassette)

cranks were doubles but I bolted an Absolute Black oval ring on no problems

rigid for me was ideal as forks were ti, incredible how much bump absorption they had, and a ti seat post too makes a huge difference to comfort levels

have tapered forks on new bike but notice no difference from the 1-1/8 used previously... but then I'm not exactly 'hardcore'!

loved the bolt through axles, think the flex on the ti fork my have been too unnerving if it had only been a qr!

best and comfiest bike I've owned... wish I'd never sold it

 

[66 triumph daytona]

Re: Re:

my tuppence worth...

It's worth going 11 speed if running 1x, XTR is fab but the cassette only gives option of 40 whereas XT gives either 42/46 which when combined with a 30 top ring for me was perfect (42)

cranks were all doubles but I bolted an Absolute Black oval ring on no problems

rigid for me was ideal as forks were ti, incredible how much bump absorption they had, and a ti seat post too makes a huge difference to comfort levels

have tapered forks on new bike but notice no difference from the 1-1/8 used previously... but then I'm not exactly 'hardcore'!

loved the bolt through axles, think the flex on the ti fork my have been too unnerving if it had only been a qr!

best and comfiest bike I've owned... wish I'd never sold it

Christ thats lovely.Perfect build too.

 

[ishaw]

Re:

I'm cash poor but parts rich. I can do 10 speed xtr rear mech and shifter. Cranks I have some new ethirteen 1x and various rings. Also have race face turbines which are 2x but can swap to single. Also have m970 cranks and some custom blanking bolts so could run 1x too.

Forks are the conundrum as I have a couple of nice carbon forks but they are standard qr. Would prefer bolt through to match the rear.

Wheel conversion. Wish i could simply get the right end caps and swap, might have to build a new set. At least i only need spokes as have a set of new rims as well as hope hubs.

Going to go Thompson stem, carbon bars, probably a reverb dropper or Thompson post.

Never really thought about gear ratios as always had at least 2x, what should I be aiming for. I'm not that fit at the moment and not racing. Will use the bike on local south down trails and probably road occasionally.

Brakes will be magura mt6 as I have some spare, though also have some v2/4 hope and xo for consideration.

 

[james1985]

M980 will be nice, and imo the 970 cranks would still go nice looks wise, they are also nice and light. Ive still got my old 970 equipped Kinesis, and despite everything being worn out, its worn together and still rides spot on. Superstar components do a nice range of chainrings that are pretty cheap, ive got a 38 on my XT gravel bike, and ive just ordered a 30 for the race bike so I can run my xtr cassette.

I suppose the key thing with going 1x is you are making a compromise to match up with the rider, rather than the 3x or to an extent 2x than having a gear for every rider in every situation plus duplicates, weight and mud collection.

I think value wise, money would be best spent on the biggest cassette as it will wear to the chain quicker. A 32 chainring would probably be best to start with, then if you really don't get on, you can easily drop down to a 30. but honestly, most peoples go to is a 32.

Regarding tapered head tubes, Its case of lots of small gaines, rather that one thing being an epic gamechanger. Get on a modern thru axle bike with tapered head tube and it will feel so solid, and therefore more planted, predictable handling and more trust and feel in the tyres. From a design point of view, the tapered head tube is stronger, so can be made lighter, my new RS SID ultimates weigh in at 1670 grams! when you are chasing every gram, it makes a difference (I will save over 100 grams when I refit my xtr cassette in place of the Suntour boat anchor.

 

[james1985]

I was racing on this last night, I really love it, it just suits me perfectly.