How do I reassemble a hub?

Ajoten

Old School Hero
For reasons we shan't go into I have in pieces a rear hub (for a freewheel)... 1x spindle, 2x lock nuts, 2x keyed washers, 2x cone nuts (I think that's the right term, not really sure what a cone nut is). The cone nuts are different sizes.

I don't know what order the bits should go back on the spindle, but I'm hoping that looking at the assembled front hub should illustrate it.

But I'm not sure what the best sequence of actions is when putting it all back together. Should you do a particular side first? I don't know how much spindle was sticking out originally, is there any margin for error with that? Can you pack the bearings with too much grease? Is the spindle symmetrical or could I put things on the wrong side?!

Hmm - and can I overtighten everything?

And so on. Any help appreciated.

Andrew.
 
Ajoten":793ic3wb said:
For reasons we shan't go into I have in pieces a rear hub (for a freewheel)... 1x spindle, 2x lock nuts, 2x keyed washers, 2x cone nuts (I think that's the right term, not really sure what a cone nut is). The cone nuts are different sizes.

I don't know what order the bits should go back on the spindle, but I'm hoping that looking at the assembled front hub should illustrate it.

But I'm not sure what the best sequence of actions is when putting it all back together. Should you do a particular side first? I don't know how much spindle was sticking out originally, is there any margin for error with that? Can you pack the bearings with too much grease? Is the spindle symmetrical or could I put things on the wrong side?!

And so on. Any help appreciated.

Andrew.

TBH how much sticks out isnt that important.
Cones ?
OK on the hub, the 2 races are called cup and cone. The cup is encapsulated into the hub and you cannot remove it(actually you can, theyre replaceble, but thats not required here.) The cone is the bit that can screw up or down the axle.

2 sizes :shock:
:LOL: Im guessing you mean 2 lengths
The longer of the two is the drive side. The shorter the non drive

Screw the long one with the cone facing inward(obviously) and leave it about 40mm from the end.(this is actually crucial, but until its all done up you cant really tell if youve left enough one side or too much. Anyone here will tell you its from experience of doing it a lot to get the spacing perfect first time.

Next place the locknut on and tighten the two against each other.
This side needs to be really really REALLY tight.

TO HUB
Clean the cup race with a cloth. BEWARE here of just running a finger around it, these things have a habit of having sharp burrs, and ive seen a number of cut fingers :LOL:

Fill the cup with grease. It doesnt hold that much really and wiping flush with a finger(mind those burrs ;) )

The actual proper proper way to grease the cups is to place a bead in the cup then another next too it and so on around the inside till its full of little beads of grease, but tbh you cant really mess this up.
Place a bearing in and continue on till youve filled the cup with bearings and theres maybe a space of 3 or 4mm left.
Slide the axle/spindle into the hub taking care not to dislodge a bearing and push it into the hub body. Do that and you need to withdraw the axle, take it out and well, i guess you can work out the putting back in bit :oops: :LOL:

With the axle in place and the bearings in one side, turn over, making use it doesnt fall out(i balance it between my knees), Best if you add the grease to both sides prior to putting in one bearing set, as its easier
Add the bearings to the other side. One at a time, make sure its seated in. It will be a little fiddly given youve the axle taking up most of the room but im sure youll manage. And again be careful not to drop on inside , probably more so , as you would need to take the lot out and start again :facepalm:

HOORAY.
Both bearing cups are filled and all you need to do is screw on the other cone.
Tighten it up till its smooth but not gritty, FFS dont overtighten tight, as it damages the cups. I leave it loose and tighten, rather than tight and loosen.
Place the other locknut on and tighten the both together
The next bit is feel, or experience rather.
Too slack, you can turn both the cone and its locknut together as theres always a tiny tiny fraction you can move both around at the same time without disturbing it.

Happy ??
If its just a hub not a wheel, theres zero need to load it all up perfectly, and tbh there without the wheel built its hard to know if youve got it perfect or loose. Having the rim on and on the bike you can easily feel for any movement. Bit more leverage.

Keyed washers
Those marked sections face out towards the inside of the drop out, so it grips. You could have another facing into the dropout but a standard washer and nut are fine.

Your mistake was removing the long cone to begin with. That was your spacing set :LOL: But we've all done that too. At least i have :LOL:
 
GAAAHHHH Ive just realized this is the road section. Aggghhh, i feel soiled. I thought this was MTB.

Im outta here.
 
I was about to say thanks for such a comprehensive answer, but now I'm concerned you're trying to sabotage my road bike!
 
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