Hope Hub Help

[FluffyChicken]

Get Double Butted DT spokes, will be a few quid more, but a better wheel.

559 is just metric for saying 26" and has nothing to do with the place where the spoke nipple are in the rim.
17.5 is the internal width of the rim, often approximate.

Offset is for rims where the spoke holes are set to one side. Normally omitted unless you know you need to use it.

SJS give the ERD as 533mm as mentioned above

so using
http://lenni.info/edd/ (have a read of the how to measure for some info)
double checking info here http://www.hopetech.com/webtop/modules/ ... nsions.pdf for hub dimensions you can see the Bulb and Pro2 (135) have near as anyone cares for spokes the same measurments


Gives (bulb)
Complete wheel data

Hub Hope Bulb 135mm
Right flange ø: 52
Left flange ø: 56
Centre to right flange: 20.5
Centre to left flange: 31.5
Spoke hole ø: 2.6

Rim DRC MT19
Effective rim ø: 533
Offset spoke bed: 0
Spoke length for 32 spokes
Crosses Right Left Tension L/R
0 240.1 239.3 65%
1 242.2 241.6 65%
2 248.3 248.2 65%
3 257.2 257.7 65%
4 267.2 268.5 65%

Based on 12mm nipples.
(to back up measurements above)
probably get away with 256mm with 14mm DT nipples or 258 both side with 12mm DT nipples. As 257 are often not stocked.
But leave it to the bike shop, for 20 odd quid it's worth it and they have the lengths to try with.


260mm would be too long so you couldn't use them anyway.

It's well worth measuring things yourself as plucking them off a random website for ERD and there are many Bulb and Pro 2 types of hub around (or at least measurements that differ for them)

 

[brocklanders023]

I was told when my Pro 2 hub started to chew up it was because the cassette was a low/mid range one. Thought I was being blagged but changed it for a topish end cassette and it's run for years without any more issues.

Don't worry about calling Hope as they're great and have a superb reputation for customer service for a reason

 

[FluffyChicken]

I was told when my Pro 2 hub started to chew up it was because the cassette was a low/mid range one. Thought I was being blagged but changed it for a topish end cassette and it's run for years without any more issues.

Don't worry about calling Hope as they're great and have a superb reputation for customer service for a reason

When they had the Ti freehubs and I guess for the Alu one's as well, they said in their instructions to use Alu caged/spidered cassettes. The individual cogs cannot move and dig in. Or at least get one where they are all bolted together tight and evenly.
Though I would just use a marked one, file the notches of and use a caged/spider'd cassette.

 

[dyna-ti]

Took it up to the wheelbuilder who recommended not using loaded spokes are A theyre painted and B theyre crap.Given the importance of wheels not collapsing im going with DT as per usual.It looks like he'll be able to use the majority of the spokes that came off the bulbs on the xc front,meaning its only one set i need to payfor

Freehubs on the bulb arent compatible with freehubs on the pro2.I kind of guessed they wouldnt be but it was worth a go

260mm would be too long so you couldn't use them anyway

Al has a phil wood cut and thread machine so if you needed to cut down it wouldnt be a problem[Machine is something like £2500+]

Ill be getting them tomorrow so thats another 6 hours up at big als farting around.Saturday is always a good day and plenty busy with folk coming and going

Thanks for all the hard work finding out my answers

Now.
Who wants to buy some 5 bolt bulbs? rear is mint apart from a little fading.Freehub is virtually unmarked and titanium