Home brewed Cleland style bikes

The pathfinder appears to have the shorter top tube required for comfortable upright riding but the rest of the geometry looks more like Dutch Roadster than Cleland.

The Cleland has geometry based on "Trials" motorbikes but with larger wheels. If you ride a typical roadster you will notice that the steering is vague and floppy with the bike being happiest when you turn slowly. Cleland angles are steep so that they can turn on a sixpence and have BMX like, handling whilst the longer trail stops the steering from becoming twitchy at high speed.
 

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The recipe for making a basic Cleland NRS:

Take a Giant NRS 18.5" for riders about 6ft tall. 16.5" for shorter riders.
Later models 2002 to 2005 are best because the rear suspension pivots use bearings only, not the mixture of bearings and bushes used on the early models.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360466665271? ... 1423.l2649

Add some forks with a full length (uncut) steerer tube. Air sprung are best because their pressure can be lowered to take account of the reduced weight on the front wheel.

Add several steerer tube spacing rings and one of these stems that can be set up without any offset.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360466665271? ... 1423.l2649

Add wide inner tubes so that the tyre pressures can be lowered without this wrecking the handling and steering.

Add a long seat-pin. A dropper style seat-pin if you like riding over technical terrain.

What you get is a short wheelbase XC bike where the stem can be easily adjusted to also provide be a Cleland riding position and handling when you raise the stem vertically so that it lines up with the steerer tube. If you run the suspension without sag you will also get a Cleland like high bottom bracket and a bike that will climb like a really good hardtail.

What you don't get is Cleland style:
*low maintenance
*excellent mud protection
*big mud clearances
*progressive braking characteristics
*elliptical chainring efficiency
*bigger 27.5" or 29" wheels
 

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Cheers for the ideas Graham.

I've got some ideas of my own re mud clearance larger wheels, though putting them into action depends on the frame I end up with.
 
Please forgive the slight necro posting, but there are much goodness in this tread.

If I may intrude with a couple of questions as to sizing ?

I`m a bit larger than the treadstarter, being 6 feet 8 inches and for some time made do with a 21 inch mtb bike, with a seriously long seat post, running this I had the seat over the rear wheel hub with the implications of having a bike that was, shall I say interesting in riding both uphill and downhill with and so uncomfortable riding that I quit riding it for anything longer than shop runs and using it around camps (should I guess, nothing longer than 10 to 20 minutes runs).

Having just found the Cleland website and been somewhat intrigued with the concept, I`m wondering if there may be some pointers as to what to look for as to someone as big as me ?

I guess that there may be some numbers game as to angles and such and running a smaller frame, I dont think I really need to think much about a sloping top tube as to getting proper stand over height.

As Chopper1192, I dont mind spending some money over time and slowly building up a bike from parts, sourced from here and there, the bikeseason are for the most parts over in Norway anyhow.
 
JensM":2rnyx93f said:
Please forgive the slight necro posting, but there are much goodness in this tread.

If I may intrude with a couple of questions as to sizing ?

I`m a bit larger than the treadstarter, being 6 feet 8 inches and for some time made do with a 21 inch mtb bike, with a seriously long seat post, running this I had the seat over the rear wheel hub with the implications of having a bike that was, shall I say interesting in riding both uphill and downhill with and so uncomfortable riding that I quit riding it for anything longer than shop runs and using it around camps (should I guess, nothing longer than 10 to 20 minutes runs).

Having just found the Cleland website and been somewhat intrigued with the concept, I`m wondering if there may be some pointers as to what to look for as to someone as big as me ?

I guess that there may be some numbers game as to angles and such and running a smaller frame, I dont think I really need to think much about a sloping top tube as to getting proper stand over height.

As Chopper1192, I dont mind spending some money over time and slowly building up a bike from parts, sourced from here and there, the bikeseason are for the most parts over in Norway anyhow.

Hi JensM,

I am 6ft 2" tall with long legs (34 inch inside leg measurement) and ride a very comfortable 18.5 inch framed modern Cleland.

Here are a few modern bikes that may be suitable for someone of your height and weight: Each has Cleland style geometry and by using a tall seat-post and uncut fork steering tube you should be able to make a suitably short, yet tall bike. The KHS full suspension bike may be good in that the suspension would help to absorb shocks that could damage an unsprung bike. And wrapping the suspension pivots in self amalgamating tape will reduce wear to a minimum.
 

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Thanks for the tips, Graham. :D

Having had a bit of an ogle, I do belive I will have a go at the On-one Inbred (steel version of the scandal), but I will probably try to set up something along the lines of the Cleland to try the somewhat radical posistion before comitting.

I had a look on the old 21" today but the top tube was rather straighter than I remember. :oops:

I found that the steel seatpost are 20" though, it may come in handy, but it may be to short for sought after the straight up posistion.

I will take some measurements and such to try to get an understanding of this, for a late newcomer, somewhat radical but highly interesting consept. :D

Again, much obliged.
 
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