Home brewed Cleland style bikes

[jamabikes]

my loosely inspired marin

 

[legrandefromage]

Ideal candidate:

 

[Chopper the ex Copper]

That's be perfect LGF, and that rear stay gives a bit of resistance to leverage for my lardy, er, high muscled body breaking the frame.

What make/model is it?

BTW, I'm loving that Marin/Cleland tribute. Clerin? Marland?

 

[legrandefromage]

What make/model is it?

'Unknown' is the best guess so far

 

[velomaniac]

I've built some fugly frankenbikes along the lines your planning. As for bars you cant go wrong with BMX bars and stem. Seatpost wise you could, if ugliness is not a worry, link the upper reaches of the post to the headtube of the frame with a ratchet tightened luggage strap. Result is it counteracts your weight possibly bending a long post. A sprung brooks style saddle would also look good

 

[Chopper the ex Copper]

I'm liking the saddle idea. Already half decided on BMX bars. Comfy and would suit the look.

Once it's done I'll get the frame powder coated black to complete the look.

Need to start hunting for a frame I guess.

 

[GrahamJohnWallace]

Hi Folks.

Chopper1192. From what you said at the beginning of the thread I can see that you understand that you can't get Cleland like handling and comfort from just sticking high handlebars on your normal mountain bike. In fact the handlebars do not need to be any higher than the saddle. But it is crucial that the top tube is short enough to take all your body weight off your arms when you sit bolt upright. Since standard size bikes come with top tubes that are too long the easy solution is to use a small frame with a long stem and seat post. The stem / bars should have no off-set for optimum handling and climbing ability.

Alternative approaches:

Wheel size? 26" - or 650b & 700c like the original Clelands

Retro or modern frame and parts?

Steep slope climbing ability or big mud clearances? Big clearances tend to lengthen the rear end and so slightly reduce the maximum angle the bike can climb.

Low maintenance? A lot of work can go into achieving this.

How fast?
Clelands can be set up to be pretty fast, though ones set up for Trials and off-piste riding can be sluggish, especially on the road.

Full suspension, front suspension or rigid?

What budget do you have in mind?


I am 6ft 2" tall and have three modern Clelands all based on small sized Giant NRS frames and so could easily tell step by step you how to convert one. I can also list some modern and retro frames that are suitable for conversion.

However it would be more fun for me to explain how Clelands work and then you could find your own solutions.
However I could save you time by pointing you toward some useful but rare components.

The Holy Grail is to get a custom frame produced as this is the only way to get all the Cleland characteristics in a single machine. This could happen but I wouldn't hold your breath.


The pictures below show the drawings for my 1988 650b Highpath and the same Highpath hidden behind a 2005 16.5" Giant NRS

 

[Chopper the ex Copper]

Hi Graham,

I actually have a Giant NRS bike, but it cost me over a grand new in 2002 and is still in superb condition, so I'm reluctant to use that.

I'm suffering a neck injury that is refusing to fully heal, so the sit up and beg position is double apepaling to me so im not bent forward and having to look up all the time. Fortunately, I got very long chimp like arms so I guess I have a bit of latitude over the frame in that regard.

I'm felxible with the frame type. TBH, in the interests of simplicity and low maintenance I would probably go for rigid, or maybe front squidger, though I wouldn't rule out a full squidger entirely if a suitable frame dropped into view at a good price.

As per componentry I'm not too fussed over modern or retro - I'm after function first and foremost, and I'm prepared to make, or have made, odd brackets, chain protectors, bosses for drum brake torque arms to bolt to etc.

Money is no object... within reason. I'm not a position to splurge big bucks all in one hit, but I am willing to spend a reasonable bit buying parts over time. I'm willing and able to be creating to buy used parts and polish or repaint to keep costs down, but if component X costs a fair wedge and it's highly desirable to add to the build then I will bite the bullet and go for it.

As for it's intended use its main environment would be trails and bridleways of vaious grades. Climbing, majore obstacle clearane etc will not be as important as general all round ability and user friendlyness.

An'd I'm 6'3", 17 stone 2 lbs, 35" inside legt with long dangly arms if thats any help.

Thanks for your time, and thank you to all who have stoked my enthusiasm for this project. I hope to have the final spend on the Alpinestars done in July, which means come July/August I'll be wanting to start the process of finding a frame to begin the project.

PS - Graham, you're only about 1/2 hours drive from me, so when it's done we'll have to get together for a ride.

 

[was8v]

A couple of links that may help:

I found it hard to find a strong short reach but tall 1" quill stem in the UK. "Humpert" do a range in europe - I had one from here £16:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 500wt_1183

Humpert also do top loaders if you want to fit BMX bars -

For some big rise (85mm) strong handlebars, I found the Gusset Open Prison cro mo bar comes in a nice chrome (£23):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280835437907?var=580074661533

 

[Chopper the ex Copper]

Those bars look just the ticket. Cheap, strong, tall, and look the part. Cheers.