hmm .. 1 reason why cantilever+v-brakes are better than disc

[Clifford]

V's are the best solution I have used.

Canti's were a real pain to setup and not very powerful.

I have not experienced a disc brake that can match my current 'V' set up, I have got two brake boosters to stop the frame/forks flexing out and thick cables.

 

[hydorah]

Personally I think this was the high point in brake evolution:

Just need a frame with seatstay u mounts and a fork to match - only ones I can think of were Avalanche team and one of the Rocky Mountains.

My mountain Klein uses one of those

And yeah they are like a vice (in a good way) quite a lot of material though

For me disks are fine they don't anger me, nor do they persuade me, there are definite advantages to the prior technologies, but disks will get better and better as they get the development effort...

But this is retrobikes so the old stuff will live on all it's super simple, minimalist, cable operated glory

 

[hydorah]

I really hate setting up canti's :x 10mm spanner plus an allen key to hold it straight.Tighten up only to find its moved :evil:
A nightmare :shock:

Nooooo! Don't do that fit your cantis with no pads in them and get the angles all nice and symetrical and the slot for the pads standing roughly vertical

Pull your levers a good few times so you can see the arms move toward the rim roughly the same rate and that the system moves back to a good symetrical state with the slots vertical again

fart about with the dinky allen screw that acts on the little cam to get the spring balance right...

Then: Dial up about half the adjustment on your levers, then fit the pads and mounting hardware get it finger tight

Using your favourite finger push the front of the pad against the rim, making sure the pad is on the braking track of the rim all along it's length (don't use pads that someone has let get worn cock eyed, I have been known to dress XT pads with a file to rescue them)

then with your other set of finger get your ten mm spanner and secure the pad

Wind off some of you adjustment to acheive the desired clearance and that is it. beautiful superb canti performance is achieved

Pressing the forwards/front area of the pad also sets toe-in, rotation of the wheel will drag the pad when it acts on the rim. If you fit them entirely square the rear of the pad will work harder than the front... another toe-in method is to pop a bit of card (rizla packet thiscness) between the rear of the pad and the rim, no need just press the front of the pad

 

[Woz]

...mmh. Isn't it all about horses for courses?

- Nice and dry = rim brake!
Nice lightweight rig, ceramic rims and v-brakes, or some nice canti's with Mavic 231. Really not difficult to stop on hard-pack.

- Crap and wet, disk brake!
That SS or 1 x 9 mud-hack for fun. I opt for Avid BB7, and are very
happy with them for the purpose; late sure breaking in to muddy corners...mmmh.

U-Brakes take me back. Had an old steel Shogun frame welded up twice at the canti-bosses and then had to machine a special brake-booster to fit properly without it interfering with the chainset. Weighed a tonne, very fussy, and required oiling and greasing after each damn ride. I vaguelly remember splitting worn rims with it too.

 

[jimo746]

V's are the best solution I have used.
I have not experienced a disc brake that can match my current 'V' set up,

Then you need to try some discs, V's are good, and can be better than a poor disc brake setup, but a decent disc setup will knock ten bells out of any V or canti setup.

 

[Andy R]

V's are the best solution I have used.
I have not experienced a disc brake that can match my current 'V' set up,

Then you need to try some discs, V's are good, and can be better than a poor disc brake setup, but a decent disc setup will knock ten bells out of any V or canti setup.

+1

 

[legrandefromage]

V's are the best solution I have used.
I have not experienced a disc brake that can match my current 'V' set up,

Then you need to try some discs, V's are good, and can be better than a poor disc brake setup, but a decent disc setup will knock ten bells out of any V or canti setup.

for 5 minutes until something leaks on it or the seals go or the pistons seize or you find you cant get the pads anymore or you nick the hose and lose your brakes out on the trail.

fine if you've go the money to throw at them but a £2.99 cable usually sorts a duff set of canti/ v-brakes for us spend thrifts.

 

[Jones]

I've never really understood this argument, I've got bikes with cantis, Vs and discs and their all great when set up properly.

Its never the brakes that are the limiting factor when I'm trying to stop as I can happily throw myself over the handlebars with one finger with any of the three setups on tarmac.

Equally when I'm off road its the terrain, tyres or a mixture of both which limit how quickly I can stop, its never the brakes :?

 

[hydorah]

V's are the best solution I have used.
I have not experienced a disc brake that can match my current 'V' set up,

Then you need to try some discs, V's are good, and can be better than a poor disc brake setup, but a decent disc setup will knock ten bells out of any V or canti setup.

for 5 minutes until something leaks on it or the seals go or the pistons seize or you find you cant get the pads anymore or you nick the hose and lose your brakes out on the trail.

fine if you've go the money to throw at them but a £2.99 cable usually sorts a duff set of canti/ v-brakes for us spend thrifts.

+ some stupendous number

 

[Clifford]

My bike has got 26" discs and V's.

I will agree I could send myself over the handle bars on tarmac if I was not careful , I almost did the other day whilst avoiding another cyclist. You know your brakes are powerful when you are hanging off the back of the bike to keep on.

Rim brakes are also fantastic at warning/scaring ramblers as you approach from behind clearing the path ahead.