Hi all, another Kona saved from the scrap!

[Karlos28]

Hi all,

A couple of months ago some tits attempted to steal my road bike. They didn't manage but in doing so they snapped the frame...


So! Since I really didn't like road bikes and stuff, I thought id look out for an old MTB to get me out (to and from work and play on a local trail centre, Clayton Vale). After asking about a mate of a mate said he had an old kona behind his shed, so without seeing it and just going on his word that itl fit, I bought it for the grand price of £30.. I think it's a Kilauea???

Picked it up and it definitely looked like it's been sat behind a shed for a few years! But I have pulled it apart and its on its way back together. It seems to have the original deore xt drive train, front mech was snapped and the rear was totally worn out. So my 105 road bike rear mech is on now (9spd but stops adjusted to run 7) I fitted the front mech off the road bike too but it's for a double and I don't seem to be able to get enough throw for the triple.

I can only assume that someone has replaced the forks with marzocchi bombers and front wheel, and fitted a cable front disc. The caliper was totally knackered too so that's in the bin. The rear is still on canti's but needs a new dog collar thing as the cable is cutting through!

My main question is what to do with brakes,
Hydraulic disc front V brake rear
V brake front and rear
Something daft like hs33's

Is it meant to be a bit of a rat bike till I leave the city so don't want it looking flash (knickable!) Or expensive.

Will try and get some more pics! If anyone can shed light on what year it is and what original equipment was fitted would be great!

Cheers
Karl

 

[Adam_S]

Pics?

IIRC roadie derailleurs don't work all that well on MTB's. Something to do with the cassette/chainring angles being different I think.

You could look at getting a bolt on adapter if you want to run discs front and back but those can be a bit of a pain in the arse. You've also got to be a bit careful with some designs and a thin tubed steel frame.

A decent set of V's will be much cheaper and easier to set up.

 

[Minifreak]

Are you sure the mechs worn out and it's not just the jockey wheels? Easy to replace them. Get some pics up and we can sort a link to the catalogue with the full spec. If you want some v's and don't mind a non matching pair I can sort you some

 

[Karlos28]

Re:

I won't let me upload any photos as it says file size too big!?

Yeh the mech was done in unfortunately, loads of play in the main pivot, adjuster was missing and as you say jockey wheels totaly dead, not that they are such an issue. Il see how it goes on the road mech then, if I need to il pick up another.

Yeh I had seen those clamp on disc mounts and was tempted. Part if me thinks it's not meant to have one and shouldn't though!? I could be interested in those v brakes fella, il see which way I decide to go. A guy over the road has got an avid one, but I need to get the clamp on cable stop first.

 

[mk one]

Hi, pics will help, you either need to use a resizer or a picture hosting site.
If you run v brakes you can just run full length outers and zip tie it to the frame, no need for cable stops. Will get you up and running/stopping for now

Mark

 

[MR OX]

Re:

I resize my pictures using paint

 

[Karlos28]

Re:

Not a bad idea, didn't think of that. I'm a big fan of full length outers anyway, less chance of crud getting in!

 

[Karlos28]

Re:

Pics are all on phones/tablets unfortunately..

 

[cce]

road and MTB rear mechs were interchangable before 10 speed MTB stuff (and even that's compatible with 11 speed road shifters)

the fronts are different. Most road ones are for doubles, and even the triple ones have a different actuation ratio

brakes wise, v brake front and rear is easiest for the "ratty" look

 

[Karlos28]

Re:

Yeh, I can't remember last time I used v brakes! I reckon with some of those super sticky pads they should perform ok. Plus the bars will look odd with one v brake and one hyd lever!