Help with Marin frame ID please?

[TOMAS]

Having read previous posts about serial numbers etc, i'm none the wiser with this frame that came as a job-lot of retro bits I bought. If it's a decent enough model I figure maybe worth restoration, however NOT looking forward to the hours required with the autosol (whilst on the topic would ball burnishing/clear anodizing be expensive/viable do you think?)

It has a campy headset (not stock), nor is the horrible fork, it had all early 90s XT groupset on it too, XT hubs with Mavic 231 PSP rims, which I assume maybe original to the frame (current wheelset is just to keep it upright whilst I fight getting the BB out...

Any help on model/year would be much appreciated, Tom

 

[2manyoranges]

Re:

Almost certainly one of the generation early 90s which included the Rocky Ridge. They are majorly rigid frames - punishing off road, even with a plush fork up front - I ran mine with manitou elastomer forks, which in their day were far more responsive to small bumps than the air shocks of the time. THe rear brake bridge is very distinctive, along with the text on the replaceable dropout ... and this is a rocky ridge of the time:http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/download/file.php?id=71093

 

[PopsTrippin]

Re:

Almost certainly a '92 Rocky Ridge bud as the code is similar to mine. It would've had LX hubbed wheels with the Mavic 231's

 

[PopsTrippin]

Re:

They do polish up nicely..

 

[TOMAS]

Re: Re:

Almost certainly a '92 Rocky Ridge bud as the code is similar to mine. It would've had LX hubbed wheels with the Mavic 231's

Cheers Pops! I suspected it maybe a Rocky Ridge! How did you achieve your polished up frame - hours with Autosol? If so, does it re-tarnish quickly? I'm assuming that it received a clear anodize from factory and wonder if I can polish out the milky tarnish on mine with autosol, without burning through the whole layer of anodize. I don't mind putting the effort in initially, IF it will stay like it a while and be okay to ride in British weather! Mine will have a full M750 XT groupset and then just to decide on fork, I've a Mag30 and a Mag21SL spare at minute... then I need some decals to finish it off

 

[Tricky1977]

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=37430
Suggests it’s a 92

 

[TOMAS]

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=37430
Suggests it’s a 92

Cheers Tricky!

So I think we are all in agreement its a 92 Rocky Ridge .

I might struggle to build it upto factory spec unless I downgrade from the XT kit it came with, also the Mavic rims are silver not black/grey ano, it came covered in those caramel coloured Pace bolts too... I figure prev owner must have liked upgrading! Now just to get the bastard stuck BB out and then time to get building and polishing. Think I'd better go over it well for cracks too before this process begins, don't want to spend hours polishing a turd.

 

[PopsTrippin]

Re:

I bet you a fiver it won't be cracked... they made them well in '92 Alcoa aluminium seemed to fair better then the Easton aluminium of subsequent years.

As to the polishing,

It is a bit labour intensive but well worth the effort. When i got mine it was milky like yours so you have to break through to lacquer.. once upon a time when Nitromors was more powerful you'd use that first and then Autosol it, but it's crap now so you have to go through the grades of wet and dry sandpaper. Don't be scared using relatively rough grades first as you'll lose the scratches with finer grades, i used steel wool too around the awkward parts. Then Autosol the life out of it for that lovely shine.

I've heard people say that they've applied wax after applying the decals but i've never bothered as it only takes 5 minutes to get the shine back if it starts to dull, which it doesn't... it's just water marks really.

Oh and keep it full XT.. mine is

 

[TOMAS]

Re: Re:

I bet you a fiver it won't be cracked... they made them well in '92 Alcoa aluminium seemed to fair better then the Easton aluminium of subsequent years.

As to the polishing,

It is a bit labour intensive but well worth the effort. When i got mine it was milky like yours so you have to break through to lacquer.. once upon a time when Nitromors was more powerful you'd use that first and then Autosol it, but it's crap now so you have to go through the grades of wet and dry sandpaper. Don't be scared using relatively rough grades first as you'll lose the scratches with finer grades, i used steel wool too around the awkward parts. Then Autosol the life out of it for that lovely shine.

I've heard people say that they've applied wax after applying the decals but i've never bothered as it only takes 5 minutes to get the shine back if it starts to dull, which it doesn't... it's just water marks really.

Oh and keep it full XT.. mine is

Well once the BB is out i'm gonna bath it loads, I did one bit just with autosol and came up really well, these aren't really scratches etc, its just light surface corrosion I believe so think I might just autosol the life out of it, I figure looping a rag over the tubes and using both arms might be a bit quicker than the one hander technique haha! Just got to decide on fork, do I find a rigid or stick my Mag21 SL or Mag30 in it!? Decisions decisions!

Tom

 

[marc two tone]

Re:

Ha! My old '93 rocky up there.

Did one of the cut gate rides on it, yes, rather harsh on the batty.