Help - suspension noob question

Paulstevo

Dirt Disciple
Hi all - my first foray into suspension mountain biking - have always used and maintained a non-suspension bike.

Anyway have been given a Marin Rift Zone 1997-98ish and there is a clicking or knocking at the bottom of the suspension. I think it is some sort of bushing that is worn but I can’t work out how to get it off, or what to buy to replace it with should I manage to get it off.

Would any specialists tools /vices be needed to replace?

I’ve looked everywhere and really can’t find the search term to use! Hopefully have attached 2 pics of where it is coming from. Thanks, and once again really sorry if it sounds like a dumb question. Thanks in advance
 

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Re:

General comment... I have a few vintage suspension bikes. All of them can be taken apart with Allen wrenches. It’s just pivot points with plastic washers between metal parts that move with Allen bolts holding it all together. I’d start at the joints and mess with spring last.
 
Re:

Pop the black cap off either side probably allen on one side, nut on the other. Undo and that should release the shock and give you access to the bushings. Some suspension designs also have a tube in addition to the bolts, some don't so you may need to push this through to free things up but I doubt it on your frame.

You should be able to push the bushings through with a socket of the right diameter and once out you can assess the wear and either clean and refit or replace with new.

Bushings tend to be a source of play and clicking, so if no play, clean it all up, put back, grease up and refit.

Noise can travel through a frame making it sound like it is coming from a point its not, so if you still have clicking after replacing, it can be a minefield to find where it is really coming from.
 
Re:

Hi thank you very much. We have tried removing but it feels like it is seized as the internal seems oval shape within a circular outside. Probably not been taken apart in over 20 years. I’ll put some freeing oil in it and do what you suggest. Thanks all
 
Re:

Could be wrong but it looks the metal insert sleeves oval thing would be against shock and slide into back of outer arms. You’d need to remove long bolt, swing shock out of the way, then remove inserts from the “inside”. Inserts being where the oval is.
 
Re:

Last comment... use a gigantic adjustable wrench on the Allen wrench. It’ll give you a lot more power to crack loose old bolt. Along with lots of oil soaking overnight
 
Re:

You might need an allen key on one side, socket on the other with the nut (I doubt the bolt is threaded into the swing arm.

If you are using a socket set/ratchet, use one with a long handle for greater leverage, or slot a bar over the handle for even more. If you don't have a bar, use and old handlebar. You can rig a spanner with the enclosed end over the ratchet handle, but fiddly and it can slip.
 
Re:

Behind the plastic caps are two 10mm (I think) nuts on a thru bolt that is threaded both ends...you need an extended socket on both nuts to reach into the recess and usually only one nut 'undoes' then you can tap the bolt out. The clunk you are hearing is the worn bushings as they are only a soft alloy.. get a replacement set BUSHING after you have measured yours...(might be worth changing the shock eyelets whilst its off) and the bolt maybe for a stainless M8 x 65mm BOLT.. put all back together for a play free susser.
Did similar with the kids Mount Vision a while back makes all the difference especially swapping for an air can!
 
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Re:

When you put it all back, use copper slip grease on the threads to prevent them getting stuck.
 
Re: Re:

ishaw":2ht0j8fx said:
When you put it all back, use copper slip grease on the threads to prevent them getting stuck.

I can’t find copper grease anywhere in my area (USA). I’ve seen it mentioned here a few times, Is it worth ordering off the internet? I’ve never used it
 
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