Help removing non drive crank on a 30mm axle (not suitable for using crank puller)

[Monkeeee01]

https://velomotion.net/2018/05/assembly-story-orange-stage-6-tune-fast-foot-crank/
I’ve just fitted a Tune smartfoot crankset like the one below to my frame, and I had to tap the non drive side crank onto the axle with a rubber mallet to get it far enough into the axle - but now I need to remove it again!!!

It won’t just pull off so how do I remove it?

Obvious answer (and the one in the manual) is to tap it with a plastic hammer but with it being fitted to the frame there isn’t much room to get the mallet at the right angle to be able to tap it (even if I tap it at the pedal end).

Do I just persevere and keep tapping it at the pedal end or is there another way?

Thanks in advance

 

[FZRIP]

Have you tried the “screw in the opposite way pushing a coin” method to open the clamp up a bit more?

 

[Monkeeee01]

Have you tried the “screw in the opposite way pushing a coin” method to open the clamp up a bit more?

No not tried that. You mean get a coin/tyre leaver in the clamp and try and push it apart and pull the crank?

 

[FZRIP]

Pic courtesy of @bikeworkshop
Hopefully self explanatory

 

[Monkeeee01]

Ok thanks, will try that tomorrow

I’m not sure it’s the clamp though, I think it’s more that it’s just such a tight fit in terms of the connection of the end of the axle and the inside of the crank!

 

[bikeworkshop]

Ok thanks, will try that tomorrow

I’m not sure it’s the clamp though, I think it’s more that it’s just such a tight fit in terms of the connection of the end of the axle and the inside of the crank!

But opening out the clamp increases the diameter of the clamping circle while the inner circle remains the same size - so it's got to let go.
Just make sure you do both bolts evenly, and it shouldn't take much.

 

[Monkeeee01]

But opening out the clamp increases the diameter of the clamping circle while the inner circle remains the same size - so it's got to let go.
Just make sure you do both bolts evenly, and it shouldn't take much.

Ok thanks man, I’ll be giving it a go today!

 

[d8mok]

Personally I wouldn’t use the coin method on a set of lightweight cranks.

I’d use a block of wood and a cloth on the rear of either crank arm. And tap with a poly hammer. Gives you more area to hit

 

[Monkeeee01]

Personally I wouldn’t use the coin method on a set of lightweight cranks.

I’d use a block of wood and a cloth on the rear of either crank arm. And tap with a poly hammer. Gives you more area to hit

This was my other thought / last resort (or even combining the two processes)

 

[bikeworkshop]

We've got 2 and 3 legged pullers -

you need something to sit on the axle end to push against, and something to prevent marks on the back of the arm.

Also a bearing splitter will do the job, but can make a real mess, so only if you want to replace the crank on a beater, like it's got a damaged extractor thread on a taper fit.

Personally I wouldn’t use the coin method on a set of lightweight cranks.

I’d use a block of wood and a cloth on the rear of either crank arm. And tap with a poly hammer. Gives you more area to hit

I'd assumed that tapping the back with a soft faced mallet isn't working before stepping up to heavier stuff

- As for the coin method, less than quarter of a turn ought to be enough. Don't go too far!