HELP... I don't want to break it!

bertberr

Devout Dirtbag
Hi, just wondered if any of you could shed any light on this.

Unsure how much to tighten the crank bolt in the non drive side of my 2002 Tomac (Race Face Turbine crankset).

I had to remove the cranks in order to fit a new BB (ISIS cartridge), but whereas the drive side came off easily with the crank extractor and went back on equally well, the non drive side was a bugger to remove, and in the end I took it to my LBS as I didn't want to strip the threads.

Putting it back on today, it would only push in so far, so I started tightening the crank bolt and I think its pulled it in a little more, but it's still showing more of the axle than on the drive side... it will tighten a little more I think, but just wanted to get some views on how much you should tighten the bolts on an ISIS before I start hanging off it...???

Thanks
 
I'd have thought it should be showing a bit more axle on the non drive side, but as usual I could be talking crap.
 
Here is a pic of the non drive side. I measured the distance from the outside edge of the crank to the BB shell, and it was about 31mm on the drive side and about 33mm on the non drive side, so while only 2mm or so, I'm not sure if this will prove critical when I start putting the power down - last thing I want is a bust axle on my new BB, or a sheared crank... :shock:
 

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Well 40nm is what most cranks should be tightened to.

Inspect threads on the bolt and inside the axle.

Clean up immaculately.

Take it to your local bike shop, say you can't attach it and could they just tighten it up for you to the correct torque.

They should do it for free and if they break it, hey presto you get a new one. :roll:

BTW did they not say why it was tight before?
 
It looks fine to me, if the crank's not loose I wouldn't be worried about riding it.
 
do the bolts up very tight....id be amazed if you had the strength to strip them...crank bolts need to be in there good!
 
Be careful if your crank bolts are alloy though :shock:
My xtr m950 is on a similar amount and is fine but check that the splines are lined up properly :oops: as this is the Quickest way to bugger up an isis or octalink :oops:
 
Dr.Robotnik":8zspx47i said:
Well 40nm is what most cranks should be tightened to.

Inspect threads on the bolt and inside the axle.

Clean up immaculately.

Take it to your local bike shop, say you can't attach it and could they just tighten it up for you to the correct torque.

They should do it for free and if they break it, hey presto you get a new one. :roll:

BTW did they not say why it was tight before?

I would be amazed if a bike shop would touch it for free because of the unscrupulous idiots who try to blame them ;) I am a business owner and will not touch anything that did not come from me originally :shock:
 
marin man":1vtnhety said:
I would be amazed if a bike shop would touch it for free because of the unscrupulous idiots who try to blame them ;) I am a business owner and will not touch anything that did not come from me originally :shock:

Well I guess that's where a good relationship with your LBS comes in... or with two in my case. One of them removed the offending crank for £5, the other has given free advice on various occasions and even given me the odd used part to help me with my old Kona.

While I have and will continue to get some parts online, I have over the last couple of years bought various bits from both shops, including shoes, chains, tools and other misc' items. I'd even buy a bike from them if they had the brand I was looking for, and made some effort to talk a deal (which I know they would).

As such they would certainly tighten the crankbolts for 'free', in the knowledge that I would be buying bits from them again before too long.

As it is I've torqued them up myself based on an average of various guides on the web - 30 lb ft, and will of course monitor them closely over the next few rides.

Thanks for all the links / info / recommendations etc.
 
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