Headshok or not?

[The Malcolm]

Re:

That is the cheapest new DL80 I could see and that would give you the lock out. But it's an eye watering price.
http://www.cannondale-parts.de/damperkit-DL80

 

[Malvern Rider]

:shock: 167 sterling, plus fitting/service - equals something in the region of 300 quids if I'm not wrong?

That could buy a very nice dual air fork, maybe I should just forego the lockout and get this one serviced and setup correctly for my weight...anyone else have experience of a non-lockout model?

 

[Malvern Rider]

Promising news I've just scored a (used) replacement Super fork for notalot, with lockout and air! Wrong colour but when it comes to service will hopefully swap the internals into existing forks if compatible. Now just need to find a boot. Fingers crossed this one isn't in such a shokking state

 

[syncrosfan]

As far as I know the internals can be swapped from one fork to the other without problems. They did advertise the Headshoks as being upgradeable with internals swap.

 

[The Malcolm]

Re:

Sounds good. Post a picture of the next fork when you get it.

 

[amedias]

Re:

Sorry I'm late to the party chaps, do love a good headshok/lefty thread

Between me and the GF we've got 3 fattys and currently 2 leftys, but then I'm fortunate enough to have tony at thumbprint just a short ride down the road ;-)

Definitely worth persevering to get yours fixed or find one in good condition, when serviced and fettle they are great forks for short travel applications, very smooth, very adjustable and tracking is unmatched.

The later models are actually less reliable than some of the older ones, the sweet spot is mid 00's models, Super and Ultra (alu steerer/slider model) that have been well looked after.

Most of the nternals are swappable between forks, the damper is a removable unit and can be ported to different telescopes so upgrades are an option.

It's almost worth the spend on a full rebuild and sort on a duffer as you'll end up with a decent light weight fork in tip top condition for about the same money as buying one in the same condition, and Tony normally has loads of spares to sort whatever you need at sensible prices

Sadly my best fatty got stolen while it was on myold F900, it was a Tony special, alu steerer Ultra with custom tuned damper and 70mm travel, a smidgeover 2.5lbs and stiffer than any SID ;-)

I'm a big fan of letlftys if you need more travel, but for short travel uses fatty is the way forward!

 

[Malvern Rider]

amedias - 3 Headshoks in the family, is that masochism or minimalism I can't decide!

Themalcolm - Fatty Super (steel steerer) arrived - here's the pic:

Looks ok, and a few hand compressions standing on the floor seems smooth, lockout works but is not total, ie there is a 'thunk', seems a few mil of give in it. So the question is do i remove my existing borks and fit these in place and set the (albeit right-coloured) knackers aside for the winter, ride these (albeit wrong coloured) for the winter and then swap the internals and get serviced all in one when i get some dosh next yr? Seems like a plan...

Other option is to test my oft self-identified utilitarian streak and keep the blue forks on the yellow bike ;-)

 

[shedobits]

Re:

Anyone have contact details for Tony at Thumbprint?

 

[The Malcolm]

Re:

So the question is do i remove my existing borks and fit these in place and set the (albeit right-coloured) knackers aside for the winter, ride these (albeit wrong coloured) for the winter and then swap the internals and get serviced all in one when i get some dosh next yr? Seems like a plan...

Other option is to test my oft self-identified utilitarian streak and keep the blue forks on the yellow bike ;-)

Sorry would have replied sooner but work took over. The new forks look like a good replacement set. They look like a DL70 or 80. Measure the travel with no air in the air spring to confirm this.

If I was you I would use them as they are for now. Have some fun over the winter and then transfer them when funds permit. Sounds like they may need some oil or seal replacement if the lockout is not working 100%.

Before you use them make sure you put some grease on the races. Let the air out the air spring coat the bottom race in grease and work up and down until you feel they are running smooth. I use a good quality general purpose grease on mine. Then put air back in and fit a rubber boot.

You can get new rubber boots from querty or cannondale spares. The new ones are a much tighter fit but they do stretch over the bearings.

 

[Malvern Rider]

(Thanks The Malcolm) much appreciated.

Haven't got the tools/my head around the changeover yet so currently still riding the old boingy gritty ones with the compression screwed down to firm things up a bit, might do me for the winter then will decide what to do early spring. I really do have to get up to speed with servicing/changing these things over tho as always get annoyed at stasis via being mechanically daunted