Headset/headtube advice
- Thread starter xerxes
- Start date
I had a reply from the frame builders. They recon they can do it for around £50.00.
I'm thinking I will just have 2mm off the bottom and 3mm of the top to give me an extra 5mm.
Thinking about the change in the head angle: this really will be minute and in fact most of the problems are caused by the fact that the alloy headsets I've been using have a higher stack height than the orignal steel one, so are probably raising the front a couple of mm in any case.
The frame I have is very scruffy and really needs a re-painting and I've been thinking of having it powder coated for some time now. I would also like the cable routing changed to be all along the right side of the top tube and was thinking of having some new braze-ons added for this - I was thinking I could remove the old ones myself.
Head tube shortening, new braze-ons and powder coating I reckon will cost somewhere in the region of £200 to £250. My question is, is it worth it for a 1990 Pine Mountain frame, or should I perhaps look for something in better condition to start with?
On the one hand, I've owned this frame from new, I know and like how it rides and have a certain amount sentimental attachments just becuase I've had it so long. On the other hand, I keep looking at some of the lovely stuff that shows up in the Reader's MTBs section. Early 90's Kona Explosif, Ritchey, Clockwork Orange, Rocky Mountain, I really like the wishbone stays on the latter two. :?
I'm thinking I will just have 2mm off the bottom and 3mm of the top to give me an extra 5mm.
Thinking about the change in the head angle: this really will be minute and in fact most of the problems are caused by the fact that the alloy headsets I've been using have a higher stack height than the orignal steel one, so are probably raising the front a couple of mm in any case.
The frame I have is very scruffy and really needs a re-painting and I've been thinking of having it powder coated for some time now. I would also like the cable routing changed to be all along the right side of the top tube and was thinking of having some new braze-ons added for this - I was thinking I could remove the old ones myself.
Head tube shortening, new braze-ons and powder coating I reckon will cost somewhere in the region of £200 to £250. My question is, is it worth it for a 1990 Pine Mountain frame, or should I perhaps look for something in better condition to start with?
On the one hand, I've owned this frame from new, I know and like how it rides and have a certain amount sentimental attachments just becuase I've had it so long. On the other hand, I keep looking at some of the lovely stuff that shows up in the Reader's MTBs section. Early 90's Kona Explosif, Ritchey, Clockwork Orange, Rocky Mountain, I really like the wishbone stays on the latter two. :?
Firstly, I'd check what you can do with a road headset like a Campag Record with a lower stack height.
Secondly, I'd still consider making a new fork instead - you could also go to Ahead which would make life easier in future.
A third thought which worries me is whether the Pine Mtn has a butted head tube (my 1994 did) so that the ends are thicker to support the bearing cups. If they are, then by slicing them off you will thin the tube ends. In time the tube will probably crack or ovalize.
As for spending money on an old frame - why not? I had extra braze-ons and a costly enamelling on my (much humbler) 1990 Palisades as it's a brilliant touring frame, fits like a glove, rides like an old friend and I've had it for well over 20 years.
Secondly, I'd still consider making a new fork instead - you could also go to Ahead which would make life easier in future.
A third thought which worries me is whether the Pine Mtn has a butted head tube (my 1994 did) so that the ends are thicker to support the bearing cups. If they are, then by slicing them off you will thin the tube ends. In time the tube will probably crack or ovalize.
As for spending money on an old frame - why not? I had extra braze-ons and a costly enamelling on my (much humbler) 1990 Palisades as it's a brilliant touring frame, fits like a glove, rides like an old friend and I've had it for well over 20 years.
The only headsets that fit properly are the very low stack height, steel cup type. They're cheap, but rough and short lived.
I'm fairly certain that the head tube is plain, I couldn't detect any butting when I had a look down it, but I will get the frame builders to check this when I take it in.
I looked into converting to an Ahead, but I rather like the Syncros Cattleprod stem I've had in there pretty much since I bought the bike.
I'm reassured that you don't think I'm totally daft to spend on an old frame though. I've had the bike since new, 22 years now and like you, it feels very familiar and somehow "right". I worry that I wouldn't find that if I changed to something else, even if in some ways it was a "better" frame.
I'm fairly certain that the head tube is plain, I couldn't detect any butting when I had a look down it, but I will get the frame builders to check this when I take it in.
I looked into converting to an Ahead, but I rather like the Syncros Cattleprod stem I've had in there pretty much since I bought the bike.
I'm reassured that you don't think I'm totally daft to spend on an old frame though. I've had the bike since new, 22 years now and like you, it feels very familiar and somehow "right". I worry that I wouldn't find that if I changed to something else, even if in some ways it was a "better" frame.
My 1994 Pine Mtn had external butting for the headset, so it should be really obvious. Thinking back IIRC a 1991 Eldridge I owned for a while had a plain head tube. :?
I think that there's a lot to be said for a bike you know so well you can ride in your sleep. Last year I did a day out to the TdF, and to cut a long story short ended up riding 75 miles with full camping kit on board. The last 20 I did in a daze after I bonked badly (I cannot recommend moules marinieres and a pichet of wine as cycling food). A familiar frame and a bike that looked after me saved a nightmare from turning into a disaster.
Refurb it with a beautiful paint job...and post up the pictures!
Have you seen here - might be worth a punt...
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/ral ... 1-ec033199
I think that there's a lot to be said for a bike you know so well you can ride in your sleep. Last year I did a day out to the TdF, and to cut a long story short ended up riding 75 miles with full camping kit on board. The last 20 I did in a daze after I bonked badly (I cannot recommend moules marinieres and a pichet of wine as cycling food). A familiar frame and a bike that looked after me saved a nightmare from turning into a disaster.
Refurb it with a beautiful paint job...and post up the pictures!
Have you seen here - might be worth a punt...
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/ral ... 1-ec033199
I have something quite "stunning" in mind.
I'm not sure I'll get the bike up to some of the "better than showroom" standard of some of the outstanding examples I've seen on here though.There's a phrase I haven't heard in a long time. Years ago I belonged to a road cycling club and the old boys used to go on about "the bonk". I reckon I bonked a couple of times back then on longer 80+ mile rides, not a nice feeling. I do still do some longer rides, 50 to 60 miles on a mixture of road, tow paths and bridleways, and it's always the Marin that I choose for those, fitted with a set of semi slicks and a comfy Brooks saddle.
I did come across those forks you pointed out, but I'm worried that they won't as nice as the Marin Rockstar forks that are fitted and the bike I will lose some of the feel that I know and love. I think they are partly responsible for much of the feel of the bike and much of the direct, but springy, lively feel that is such a contrast to the plush, but somehow dead feel of my modern carbon hardtail.
