Headset and Brake Lever Qs.

[Iwasgoodonce]

Hi All. I very rarely build from scratch so I forget things. My son has requested a bike to get him to some outlying Nottingham villages so as cheap as possible whilst functioning is the key. It might well be stolen. I have an old Dawes Edge frame with damaged BB threads that fits the bill. I am about to fit the headset and need to know which of these fits to the top of the headtube and which goes in the bottom.



I have always had a logo in the past to help! To say this is a cheap one is an understatement! I have had to take the burrs of everything and rebuild a bearing cage!

Thanks as ever.

 

[mk one]

Usually the larger bearings at the bottom.

 

[Iwasgoodonce]

Usually the larger bearings at the bottom.

This one isn’t treated with such luxury. All caged bearings are the same size. From that theory though, can we assume the taller one on the left goes at the bottom?

 

[bikeworkshop]

That's it.

 

[bikeworkshop]

The deeper bottom cup sits over the crown race(and seal if you're lucky)
The shallower upper cup is in turn covered by the adjustable race - so helping to run rainwater and other potential contaminants down the outside

 

[Iwasgoodonce]

Thanks both. The homemade welded headset press did the trick once again. I fear I’ll have to do without the tabbed (not tabbed really) washer as it is quite a high stack. I managed without one for years though so here’s hoping.

I don’t think the bike is quite worth a build thread but I might add a photo or two to here. Cheers again for your timely advice.

 

[Iwasgoodonce]

Rather than begin another new thread or hijacking @Tootyred thread also on V brake levers, I have edited this one.
I want to fit V brakes to this scrapper bike. I know this means I need V brake specific levers that pull more cable. Rather than find dedicated V brake levers, I think I have several versions that are from the transition period from canti to V.
Namely I have found Dia Compe Power Control 7 EXA, Avid AD-1.0L and Ritchey Logic levers.
They all have some sort of adjuster buried within:



I’m assuming we have High and Low pull ratio? High for V brakes? Do I need to remove the little rubber spacer and wind the nubbin across to the H side? Or, does it need to flip over? TIA.

 

[ishaw]

You shouldn't need to remove anything. There may be a little grub screw that allows you to wind the adjuster to where you want it.

 

[Twozaskars]

Looks to me as though;
Green has to be removed regardless
Then either;
There’s a screw head in Red (unlikely) or;
Twist blue to make the screw turn into the lever towards Red (even less likely) or;
Twist Blue to bring Yellow along the thread then pop Green back in the other side.

 

[Iwasgoodonce]

Thanks guys. Yes, last night I removed the bit marked green. It stuck up a bit the other side and clearly needed to be gone. A 2mm Allen key then did the trick of moving the ‘bump’ down to the H end.

The cable retainer flops around a bit now but once there is some cable tension there, it should be in the right place. I have fitted a skip salvaged chainset that I was keeping just in case I ever get a boat! Chain line looks iffy but it’ll have to do as I cannot fit another BB.
I’m off to buy the cheapest 7 speed gripshift money can buy. I would prefer some sort of friction shifter but cannot find one on general sale.