Guide to repainting things

[Tallpaul]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Automotive-Paint-Handbook-John-Pfanstiehl_W0QQitemZ250253185740QQihZ015QQcategoryZ274QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

A good ol' fashioned book, the perfect media for when i'm in the garage. I wouldn't want to get paint on my Macbook

 

[Max P]

They always baffle me posts like these, Someone asks for help on how to paint and gets a load of replies about take it to the powder coaters etc, Maybe just maybe TallPaul asked because he wants to learn something new.

Well, I guess, given the location of the posting (retro MTB chat) most of us presumed this was with a view to re-painting a MTB related item?

If so, wet paint is totally impractical for anything that will actually be ridden off road. Even when done professionally (enamelled/baked) it is simply chronically un-durable compared to a powdercoat.

Fine for a showpiece road bike with all the options of lug-lining/detailing that wet paint allows but not for anything used in a typical UK winter or even summer...

As above, to try and wet paint at home with all the cost and time involved and be disappointed with the result either post-paint or post-first-ride then many of us are just saying don't waste your time!

 

[gradeAfailure]

Strip old paint - either Nitromors or sand it off, nothing harsher than 800grit or you'll score the tubes too much. If you Nitromors it, once you've washed it off you'll need to key the surface of the tubes to help the primer adhere, again, 800grit should be ok as long as you're not too harsh.

Wash and degrease the surfaces to be painted.

Mask off threads, bosses, bearing faces, etc.

Tack rag the surfaces to be painted to get rid of dust particles.

1st coat of primer (use zinc primer if you can, helps prevent rust), light and even.

When dry, flat the primer back with 1200grit wet&dry. Wash and dry the surfaces then tack rag again.

Repeat last two steps for 3-4 coats of primer or until you're happy with the finish.

Once primering is done, move onto basecoat paint - procedure is exactly the same as for primer.

Apply decals if doing so.

1st coat of clear/lacquer, apply slightly thicker than the paint to get a nice even coat without speckling, but not too heavy or it'll run.

When dry, flat back with 1200grit wet&dry. Wash and dry the surfaces then tack rag again.

Repeat the last two steps until you're happy with the result and obviously don't flat back the last coat of clear! Remove all masking when dry.

If you can, let the paint harden in an airing cupboard or similar for a couple of days.

Paint flows better when warm, so if you're using cans keep them in warm water until you come to use them. If you can get the surfaces to be painted at room temperature too, so much the better. If you get any runs at any stage, let the paint dry then sand the runs down and repeat the step.

I stand to be corrected by kris le rouge or anyone else who actually knows what they're doing, but that's my method!

 

[FSR-Si]

They always baffle me posts like these, Someone asks for help on how to paint and gets a load of replies about take it to the powder coaters etc, Maybe just maybe TallPaul asked because he wants to learn something new.

Well, I guess, given the location of the posting (retro MTB chat) most of us presumed this was with a view to re-painting a MTB related item?

If so, wet paint is totally impractical for anything that will actually be ridden off road. Even when done professionally (enamelled/baked) it is simply chronically un-durable compared to a powdercoat.

Fine for a showpiece road bike with all the options of lug-lining/detailing that wet paint allows but not for anything used in a typical UK winter or even summer...

As above, to try and wet paint at home with all the cost and time involved and be disappointed with the result either post-paint or post-first-ride then many of us are just saying don't waste your time!

Yes i agree wet paint isn't the most practical, But he wasn't asking that, he was asking for guidance on "Repainting/spraying things" so to answer with take it to the powder coaters isn't really answering the question. Thats the point i was trying to make.

 

[Tallpaul]

Yes i agree wet paint isn't the most practical, But he wasn't asking that, he was asking for guidance on "Repainting/spraying things" so to answer with take it to the powder coaters isn't really answering the question. Thats the point i was trying to make.

Indeed, but i'm also guilty of taking other threads somewhat off topic, so i'm not one to complain. All input greatly appreciated

 

[FSR-Si]

Yup me too

Sorry if i came across as a bit of a t**t

 

[cherrybomb]

Yep, powder for me too. Anyone know someone in the Oxford area?

Oxford Industrial Finishers at Eynsham.

BTW. Good topic with some sound advice from both sides of the wet paint / powder argument.

 

[bikenoob]

I heard the powder coating will let some humidity reach the frame thus exposing it to rust ( if made of steel ).
Is this true?