GT RTS rear end

eightyeight

Retro Guru
Interested in picking up an RTS at some point but notice that there seems to be 2 types of rear end: one in alloy with a pivot at the chainstay dropout and ine which might be steel with no pivot at the dropout.
Does anyone have any information on these? What are the differences pros/cons of each?

Thanks
 
I've had a few in my time, still have 2 now, my Team which is my keeper and another us built frame which I've had converted to disc and to run a bearing rather than bush at the chain stay pivot point. One day I will get built up. Both have alloy rear ends.

Rear end wise I don't think there's a lot of difference in terms of ride. The steel end without the pivot is heavier, I think some had removable mech hanger, some didn't. Early RTS had steel rear, my 93 RTS 2 had one too

The alloy ones are lighter, while I love an RTS, they can be said to fail/ crack at the rear bushing point, chain stay area. I'd say this happens when not maintained, never had this happen on any frame I've owned, though my RTS 2 did crack at the BB pivot weld.

If you are looking for a frame, check for cracks in these areas and also the headset. Make sure the shock is in working order too as they are fairly proprietary and I've only found risse as replacement options which are expensive. I believe noleen still sell and service them, but both options are stateside so expensive and likely to be more so when you factor in taxes for import. I have seen an rst unit, but it's pretty basic and heavy iirc and if you can find one.

Rocker bearing are another thing to check, though can be replaced easily.

Some frames had bushings in the main pivot. Top hat shape and hard to come by. Others had a pair of bearings with a centre that pivots/moves, can't recall the name of this type. They had a small spacer between them. I assume you can replace the top hat bushings with these.

I have most of the bearings and bushings as Soares for my 2 frames, plus some spare rear ends so if you need anything measured I'm happy to help as I am a big RTS fan and like to see them restored and used so happy to help with anything if I can.
 
Thanks for the information. Surprised it's the alloy rears with pivots that crack and not the steel ones which rely on flex but I guess that's a material thing.
How are GT sizes measured? Is 18" centre to centre or centre to top?
How did you convert to disc (and what's it like with disc?).
 
I wish I could say how it rides with discs but not had the time to build it since having it done. It was done by a fellow member, full conversion with removal of brake bosses and disc tabs welded on. I need to polish the rear end or maybe get it painted, not sure yet as I'm undecided on whether to paint the front. Currently black but fairly sure it's been repainted at some point, but could be wrong. My frame has a few differences to what I've had before, and an odd serial too.

I think the cracking of the stays is probay down to poor maintenance and bushing wear. Hope to avoid that with the bearing conversion.

Size wise I think it's c2c but never really thought about it so don't know for sure.
 
The bearing upgrade was replacing the dropout bushings with bearings. The main frame was already bearings, my rts-2 had bearings there back in 92/3. So yes you can.
 
Oddly so did I but having had a fair few RTS, none have had the top hats. I know they did, I think I may even have some NOS ones somewhere.
 
I've had a few in my time, still have 2 now, my Team which is my keeper and another us built frame which I've had converted to disc and to run a bearing rather than bush at the chain stay pivot point. One day I will get built up. Both have alloy rear ends.

Rear end wise I don't think there's a lot of difference in terms of ride. The steel end without the pivot is heavier, I think some had removable mech hanger, some didn't. Early RTS had steel rear, my 93 RTS 2 had one too

The alloy ones are lighter, while I love an RTS, they can be said to fail/ crack at the rear bushing point, chain stay area. I'd say this happens when not maintained, never had this happen on any frame I've owned, though my RTS 2 did crack at the BB pivot weld.

If you are looking for a frame, check for cracks in these areas and also the headset. Make sure the shock is in working order too as they are fairly proprietary and I've only found risse as replacement options which are expensive. I believe noleen still sell and service them, but both options are stateside so expensive and likely to be more so when you factor in taxes for import. I have seen an rst unit, but it's pretty basic and heavy iirc and if you can find one.

Rocker bearing are another thing to check, though can be replaced easily.

Some frames had bushings in the main pivot. Top hat shape and hard to come by. Others had a pair of bearings with a centre that pivots/moves, can't recall the name of this type. They had a small spacer between them. I assume you can replace the top hat bushings with these.

I have most of the bearings and bushings as Soares for my 2 frames, plus some spare rear ends so if you need anything measured I'm happy to help as I am a big RTS fan and like to see them restored and used so happy to help with anything if I can.
what size bearing did you use in the rear pivot?
 

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