Great big Singlespeed thread!

From memory a long time ago, Spondon built a frame for a Laverda triple with a co axial gearbox sprocket/swinging arm pivot. Chain tension was maintained through the suspension travel. I wonder if something similar could be done or has it been done and I'm backward, sadly quite possible. Edit for typo.
 
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That's exactly what the jackshafts do on my bikes I posted.
Have you written up the process you went through to identify the pivot point for the shafts and fabrication? It would be good to see and read about it. I’m interested in how you installed the bearings and whether this involved welding in an axle tube and repainting the frame ... or not...
 
Have you written up the process you went through to identify the pivot point for the shafts and fabrication? It would be good to see and read about it. I’m interested in how you installed the bearings and whether this involved welding in an axle tube and repainting the frame ... or not...
Looks like they are mounted on the swinging arm pivot, as far as I can see.
 
Created from bits from the tip and finished yesterday 😁 I’m hoping this’ll get me out and about in the evenings or before work in the mornings. The sand and grit around here destroys brakes / gears / rims hence tip parts.

I assume my AY-UPs at 15 years old are now retro?
 

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Created from bits from the tip and finished yesterday 😁 I’m hoping this’ll get me out and about in the evenings or before work in the mornings. The sand and grit around here destroys brakes / gears / rims hence tip parts.

I assume my AY-UPs at 15 years old are now retro?
like that. would want to get rid of the derailleur as a tensioner for the reasons you've already given, but hay, use what you have, it's a winner in my eyes.
 
Have you written up the process you went through to identify the pivot point for the shafts and fabrication? It would be good to see and read about it. I’m interested in how you installed the bearings and whether this involved welding in an axle tube and repainting the frame ... or not...
Identifying the pivot point is easy - look at where the big pivot holding the swingarm is. This only works with a single pivot, so there's no trying to work out where the instant centre or centre of curvature is. I've done this to 3 frames - Scott Gambler, Scott Voltage and Evil Undead, and I picked these frames because they fit the following criteria: 1. Single pivot. 2. The pivot is nice and chunky, able to fit some kind of axle through it without frame modification. 3. Has space between the BB and pivot for clearance for two cogs. 4. Has the required space for the new chainline, so the position of the chain stays is key here. Making the jackshaft is the easiest bit, it's just an axle of some sort, and the cog carrier is just a freehub with the pawl section cut off and a circlip groove cut in to hold it in place. The right freehub is key as it needs to have bearings in the correct places that won't get cut off. You need to use an eccentric BB to get the chain tension in the primary chainline. Once you have the right frame there is a mountain of gear ratios that all come with their own inherent issues... Direct mount chainrings are often required due to their availability in smaller sizes (otherwise you're limited to 30/32), but direct mount chainrings only come in even numbers, and also only narrow/wide which means you can't use a half link chain to get the right length (The EBB only has about 6mm of throw which isn't enough for all options). BMX cranks give you more sprocket options, but they're thicker and don't work with narrow chains. Different cog combos came with other clearance and tension issues. There were over 3000 gear combinations so I created some spreadsheets and formulas to narrow it down based on my measurements to then manually try the few options. And I still only ended up with about 5 usable options that fit my gear requirement. And lastly, I modified and reversed an SB One Boner tensioner to tuck in at the back and tension the secondary chainline. This doesn't put pressure on the suspension though, because this chainline doesn't experience chain growth.
 

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Identifying the pivot point is easy - look at where the big pivot holding the swingarm is. This only works with a single pivot, so there's no trying to work out where the instant centre or centre of curvature is. I've done this to 3 frames - Scott Gambler, Scott Voltage and Evil Undead, and I picked these frames because they fit the following criteria: 1. Single pivot. 2. The pivot is nice and chunky, able to fit some kind of axle through it without frame modification. 3. Has space between the BB and pivot for clearance for two cogs. 4. Has the required space for the new chainline, so the position of the chain stays is key here. Making the jackshaft is the easiest bit, it's just an axle of some sort, and the cog carrier is just a freehub with the pawl section cut off and a circlip groove cut in to hold it in place. The right freehub is key as it needs to have bearings in the correct places that won't get cut off. You need to use an eccentric BB to get the chain tension in the primary chainline. Once you have the right frame there is a mountain of gear ratios that all come with their own inherent issues... Direct mount chainrings are often required due to their availability in smaller sizes (otherwise you're limited to 30/32), but direct mount chainrings only come in even numbers, and also only narrow/wide which means you can't use a half link chain to get the right length (The EBB only has about 6mm of throw which isn't enough for all options). BMX cranks give you more sprocket options, but they're thicker and don't work with narrow chains. Different cog combos came with other clearance and tension issues. There were over 3000 gear combinations so I created some spreadsheets and formulas to narrow it down based on my measurements to then manually try the few options. And I still only ended up with about 5 usable options that fit my gear requirement. And lastly, I modified and reversed an SB One Boner tensioner to tuck in at the back and tension the secondary chainline. This doesn't put pressure on the suspension though, because this chainline doesn't experience chain growth.
Nice to get into your thoughts and various travails of getting the tension right. I did wonder, since some eccentricity woudl I assume help with the smaller loop…

With a head full of virus…and brain working like a clunker…I indeed had thoughts of ‘how do you find the pivot point in a virtual pivot context?’ - I should immediately have realised that on single pivots, and with helpfully higher pivots away from inference with chainrings, the pivot point is er…stunningly obvious.…apologies

….and the forward facing caliper mounting….well……reason one is to stop interference with mudguard stays. Which is sensible…since it can involve a hell of a lot of spacers and long bolts on SKS mudguards, when the caliper is in the conventional rear-and-left position on forks. Reason two {from Cotic) is that ‘it does not produce a wheel ejection force’ - which does make sense in terms of dynamics … but which of course they obviated on the Mk2 by having closed 10mm bolt thru dropouts...
 
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