grey-beard
Orange 🍊 Fan
That Curtis! Nice.Almost every bike I've owned has been single speeded at some point, these are my current and most recent ones...
View attachment 782059
That Curtis! Nice.Almost every bike I've owned has been single speeded at some point, these are my current and most recent ones...
View attachment 782059
How do you get on with ss tensioners on full sus?Almost every bike I've owned has been single speeded at some point, these are my current and most recent ones...
View attachment 782059
ywes, shorten chain and bring tensioner round. more tension on the spring will mean more tension on the chain. it will still slap about under bob but should be better.How do you get on with ss tensioners on full sus?
I've built this GT LTS mod thing recently and running it ss with a tensioner. I'm geting quite a lot of chain slap, maybe I need to shorten the chain quite a bit and have the tensioner much more 'in line'?
How do you get on with ss tensioners on full sus?
I've built this GT LTS mod thing recently and running it ss with a tensioner. I'm geting quite a lot of chain slap, maybe I need to shorten the chain quite a bit and have the tensioner much more 'in line'?
Ah ok, I didn’t appreciate that you weren’t using the tensioners to account for chain length change. You added the jack shafts yourself? That’s pretty cool.Well I'm not just running tensioners; the DMR Bolt and Black Market Killswitch have concentric BB pivots which means there's no chain growth and therefore have horizontal dropouts so no tensioner required. With the Evil Undead and Scott Voltage I made a jackshaft, which put the chain around the pivot so again there's no chain growth. They don't have horizontal dropouts though so I used a tensioner to take up the few millimetres of slack, but they aren't there to take up several links worth of slack you get with a full sus. All you can do to prevent chain slap is have the shortest chain possible and a tighter spring in the tensioner, but doing it too tight will mean it's working against the action of the suspension, which is another one of the benefits of a jackshaft - it separates all the pedalling and chain forces from the suspension action.
Ah ok, I didn’t appreciate that you weren’t using the tensioners to account for chain length change. You added the jack shafts yourself? That’s pretty cool.
Can I ask how you found the Bolt? I’m about to start building a concentric bb pivot frame but I’ve heard/read that as a suspension design it’s got its flaws? I guess your build looks quite gravity oriented so maybe you didn’t do much pedalling around on it?
Back to my LTS, I have quite a bit of spring tension on it already, there’s three positions for the pin that stops the top bit rotating and the lower bit can be clamped at different positions to get more/less tension but I think I’ll try sorting the chain anyway.
They probably do have chain slap, but it'll also be reduced by a clutch rear mech. Yes, the designer would be aware of the slight resistance on the suspension movement from the chain tension, but most of the time there's not much they can do about it. They would still prefer it if there wasn't any though, and that's why more companies are producing frames with idlers, jackshafts, and other novel ideas to counter it.These bike run with rear mechs. Damn I used mech to avoid spelling derailleur.
If they ran with rear mechs with no bad chain slap then that surely gives a reference for optimum chain tension - which designers must have built into the kinematics?
hmmm yes I can see ‘prefer it not there…’ but I don’t have bad chainslap on our 200mm or enduro bikes so maybe a clutched or damped tensioner may be the way to go.They probably do have chain slap, but it'll also be reduced by a clutch rear mech. Yes, the designer would be aware of the slight resistance on the suspension movement from the chain tension, but most of the time there's not much they can do about it. They would still prefer it if there wasn't any thought, and that's why more companies are producing frames with idlers, jackshafts, and other novel ideas to counter it.
But no matter how good your suspension is, it would still work bettER without an extra spring working directly against it, that's all I was pointing out. The tighter the chain, the less reactive the suspension is if your bike has chain growth.hmmm yes I can see ‘prefer it not there…’ but I don’t have bad chainslap on our 200mm or enduro bikes so maybe a clutched or damped tensioner may be the way to go.
But this kind of workshop fiddling is good stuff…it’s what’s given us loads of innovation