Grease and degreaser

Captain C - THAT is a VERY useful table. The discussion of anti-seize has been very valuable. I have used copper grease for many years - starting with VW Beetle spark plugs and wheel bolts - both now recommended contexts for NOT using copper grease - but the detail matters, as the table suggests. Spark plugs are now plated, with sacrificial plating, the spark plugs inserts in aluminium heads can be copper, steel, brass, you have to check. Some antique air-cooled VW heads just have tapped alloy spark plugs holes - I think we got away with it since we always installed the plugs with copper grease, and conscientiously removed and checked the gaps very regularly. The same with the wheel bolts - I was told a few years ago never to put antiseize on the bolts since the grease would break down in the heat of the brakes, and then there’s a risk of the bolts coming loose. But the main problem on Beetles was bolt/drum corrossion, and seized bolts - so putting on copper antiseize and checking torque regularly made sense.

As a result of the discussion here I have bought some nickel anti-seize and have used that in stainless to alloy applications in the last 48 hours. Always learning.
 
With the ultrasonic cleaners, what's the smallest size that would be suitable for most bike components? Not worried about things like handlebars, seat posts etc, but would like to clean everything up to crank size. and do you need to use special formulas for cleaning different things?

Also any recommendations for particular brands? I don't mind spending a little bit more for something that's more likely to perform better and/or last longer.
I have a 3 litre one which is a lot bigger than those sold at Aldi & Lidl. Link
I still have to rotate large chain rings to do the whole ring but swallows up mechs, brakes, etc in single batch. Also heats up which helps. I only fully submerge mechs if I can fully disassemble, otherwise I suspend with any moving part I can't get to out of the cleaner. I do use it for another hobby too so easier to justify the outlay.

mech4.jpg
 
Captain C - THAT is a VERY useful table. The discussion of anti-seize has been very valuable. I have used copper grease for many years - starting with VW Beetle spark plugs and wheel bolts - both now recommended contexts for NOT using copper grease - but the detail matters, as the table suggests. Spark plugs are now plated, with sacrificial plating, the spark plugs inserts in aluminium heads can be copper, steel, brass, you have to check. Some antique air-cooled VW heads just have tapped alloy spark plugs holes - I think we got away with it since we always installed the plugs with copper grease, and conscientiously removed and checked the gaps very regularly. The same with the wheel bolts - I was told a few years ago never to put antiseize on the bolts since the grease would break down in the heat of the brakes, and then there’s a risk of the bolts coming loose. But the main problem on Beetles was bolt/drum corrossion, and seized bolts - so putting on copper antiseize and checking torque regularly made sense.

As a result of the discussion here I have bought some nickel anti-seize and have used that in stainless to alloy applications in the last 48 hours. Always learning.
It's been an education for me too.Never really looked into the science of it until fairly recently.As you say,if replaced regularly,not an issue.Countless people giving reports of 'been using it for years,works for me'.I was one for many years too,having been brought up on it by my old man.
But,after a few occasions of finding copper greased alloy wheels crusted up and stuck on,I had to admit that what my best mate (knowledgeable engineer) had been telling me was true.
Been fixing bikes since the 80's,a car mechanic since the mid nineties,more recently a marine engineer.If you ask 10 engineers you'll probably get opinions either way.But knowing what I know now,why would I use a product that has a potentially corrosive element?
Plenty of other options.It's definitely not the multi-purpose product that we have turned it into!
Still love it,but the tin I have is now going to last a very long time! 😂
 
I used to use benzine, petrol or WD40 for cleaning chainrings, etc., but switched to liquid citric acid (from Lidl, e.g.). It works at least as good and leaves less mess in the sink (also better for the environment, I suppose). As always: Wear gloves and protect your eyes. Rinse parts afterwards.

The experienced housewife knows: It also works wonders on tea pots, furred up kettles, ... when mixed with hot water 😀
 
argh do you really mean benzene? It's addition to petrol (as an anti-knock component) has been severely reduced because of the very harmful effects of benzene:....

https://www.msdsonline.com/2017/11/...ke-hurricanes-harvey-irma-maria-heavy-storms/and
http://www.chemhume.co.uk/A2CHEM/Unit 1/2 Arenes/chapter_2__arenes.htm
Benzene has that unusual ring structure, and is very aromatic. As a child I LOVED the smell of petrol, which came from benzine aromatics. Glad you have shifted to citric acid.....
 
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Oh, what I meant was petroleum ether, lighter fluid, cleaner's solvent, sorry for the misunderstanding

The smell of leaded petrol really was addictive :p
 
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Might have to give the Lidl citric acid a go,thanks for the info reindeer!Remember using an orange based degeaser in the late nineties,worked pretty well and smelt great,lot more expensive back then though.Should've thought of switching to something a little more bio-friendly a long time ago.Easy to get settled on the thing that you've always used.
Anyone else have any experience/recommendations re environmentally friendly degreasers?
 
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