Damn! Not quite there yet. My cabling ideas came to naught when I discovered that I didn't have enough road inners. (Actually I had a few, but they're all used and nothing the right length for the rear.) I wasted half a day trying various combinations to no avail.
I was going to leave it at that until I got some, but a quick change of plan and I fitted Satori Minotaur bars which are very close in shape to Great North Road bars - which were a popular choice with Rough Stuffers in my day. They can be flipped over to give an upright position for weekday commuting and down for weekend fun. That's why I've used the lock-on grips. Maybe matching them to the Reynolds stickers is going too far?
The bars are mounted on an old short forged GB girder stem that got a quick clean up because it had a bit too much 'patina' after a few decades in my "one_day_I'll_need_this' box. I gave it a shiny new SS clamp bolt to celebrate its return from retirement.
I would prefer to use the dropbars because I think they look better, and they are actual Dawes Concorde bars from the era I'm trying to emulate.
That meant I could use mtb levers, rather nice Dia-Compe ones that have been waiting around for ages, and I've plenty mtb cables. I set the rear up as normal with a straddle cable.
For the front I've used one of those dohickeys that fit in the fork crown hole. This is to obviate the fork judder that you get from using cables coming bare from the headset down. The gadget has one negative against it from the start, there's a different ratio of pull on each side. This means one pad moves further than the other. I'll see how that goes and if I don't like the action, I'll bin it and use a straddle cable.. (The brake arms move unsymmetrically, and I'm suspicious of what benefit that is.)
Tomorrow, I'll be taking it for a ride to see if this is an idea worth pursuing.
