Going Straight

[Jez Nemeth]

You're right, thank you very good point.

-It might be Easton, but something don't feel right about it, and when things don't feel right they probably ain't.

Specialized it is then, the other one FSA is also a copy of a carbon one I think...

Yes Quality Wellgo's...the screws holding the reflectors on are genuine plastic though.

Spin? Not really, hopefully its just grease holding back a life of free spinning and they need wearing in a bit to free them up.

 

[bikeworkshop]

I've seen a fake carbon Easton ec90 bar broken in normal use, and fake bianchi road Forks failed while riding!
the customer had bought the latter as new genuine off ebay but Bianchi confirmed them as fake.

 

[Jez Nemeth]

Fek!
That's terrible...what's the thinking beyond a buck?

Yup the Not-Easton stem came from the same stable I think...now you see it, now you don't

-binned.

 

[bikeworkshop]

Fake-makers aren't interested in reputation, warranty, return custom, honesty - just cashing in.
Interestingly the counterfeit market has strong links with organised crime, people- and drug-smuggling, modern slavery, fake medicines, that kind of thing.

https://www.unodc.org/counterfeit/

 

[stephan]

Just thinking about it -difficult to get Cellulose lacquer Stephan, did it come labelled as 'Cellulose' -or are we talking car paint/heavy duty lacquer? Cellulose is petroleum based, and has been off the trade counter for many, many years. Modern manufacturer's use Acrylic + waterbased paints, still got nasties in it mind, not totally green by a long shot, but better healthwise. If you're spraying over an old bike frame, rub down 600/800/1200/1500/3000 grits, spray away cautiously -the original celly thinners + active agents, have likely long dissipated, leaving stabilised paint layer

If it's modern car Paint, then you'll have no worries, nada. (just make sure it's grease free, wash yer paws!)

@Jez Nemeth - Thank you so much for your comprehensive reply further up and the lovely pictures of your paint work. Basically I base coated the forks, then applied X brand cellulose lacquer x 3/4 coats. However after doing the base coat on the frame that I have not lacquered yet I decided to go down the 2K Wet Gloss look. So my guess the frame will be fine for the direct 2K lacquer. However the forks may be a different story now that I have applied the cellulose lacquer and want to finish them off with 2K. The cellulose lacquer has been bought in tins of 400ml recently and the label states "Cellulose Gloss Lacquer" they are a well known historic paint brand within the UK and the cellulose lacquer has went on great, but as said I want to finish the complete frame and fork with 2K now. I cant find the technical data sheets for the actual cellulose itself. I applied 3/4 coats 3 months ago. (I am buying the 2K from them also with the brand on the tins)

Everything gets cleaned before any coats with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol - I found 90% too strong, my hands get washed in detergent prior

Thanks for your help, Stephan.

( @Jez Nemeth - I will PM you the brand )

I will attach some pictures from when I finished the base coat on the frame, as you can see I want to keep the original decals, so I have carefully masked them all off, the outer line (decal) with fade gently with the top 2K coats (hopefully)

I have fired in an old external BB to protect the threads from over spray.

 

[Jez Nemeth]

Very cool Colour !!!

Hmmm...yup old style Celly. If can keep using the same, including the Clear be safer, but you may not have that option. You can use Celly specific thinners or Gunwash, Panel wipe usually between about 60-80% Isopropyl for prep. Even know a guy who used petrol as a Celly thinner to spray bangers!!! He said the paint was always on the move

You're doing what I would too -2k for frame, and unfortunately I agree, may have to use Celly Clear forks.

 

[stephan]

Very cool Colour !!!

Hmmm...yup old style Celly. If can keep using the same, including the Clear be safer, but you may not have that option. You can use Celly specific thinners or Gunwash, Panel wipe usually between about 60-80% Isopropyl for prep. Even know a guy who used petrol as a Celly thinner to spray bangers!!! He said the paint was always on the move

You're doing what I would too -2k for frame, and unfortunately I agree, may have to use Celly Clear forks.

Thanks, so you suggest with the info etc I sent - keep using the cellulose lacquer on the forks and do the frame in 2K? To be honest the cellulose lacquer looks great on the fork, but I wanted a "tougher" finish! To be really honest am inexperienced in this field, that is the problem.

Fork with cellulose lacquer below. "Very cool Colour !!" Its the original Viper Red Cannondale used in 1994 - Chrysler PRN - Though the date Chrysler used it was 1992. (am foo of useless facts)

 

[Jez Nemeth]

Headshox fork? -Logo of the guy with the big head?

 

[Jez Nemeth]

Unfortunately no paint is 'unchippable' -get close with dipping and baking, works best with a flat colour and tends to be really durable. There's loads of coatings that are super hard wearing -One Coat Gloss coverings VW Vans- vans generally, Landrovers -boats/Bridges/Machinery -can be polished up to a high buff too. Has a high solid content and is generally robust, hit the stuff with a hammer, expensive but worth it.

Painted some Tyre machines and tool boxes with this stuff, "Cromadex" -can be sprayed, goes on really thick, two coats done! What they paint oil rigs with. https://www.interpon.com/gb/en/insights/cromadex

One thang -20-25 deg i find is a good temp to spray, hotter to settle -up to 40deg...watch for a slight orange peel finish with the lacquer, Cold will do it/heat and surface drying faster too like a skin...lacquer can be moving underneath and settling long after the surface is touch dry.

That red is stunning though -nothing like a good red when you lay a lacquer over it for the first time and it POPS -saturates and comes alive! Flip flops ( Metallics) are the best for this...

 

[stephan]

Headshox fork? -Logo of the guy with the big head?

Afraid not - this is well before that "Big Head" logo - hopefully I can "blend" the outline in with some 3000, and the top coat will do it's work. The original lacquer is still on top of that decal, for now!