Funny wheel alignment

[twain]

Just noticed that on the non drive side of my rear tyre, the clearance from the chain stay is under half what I have the other side.
The wheel/tyre is much more central when looking at the seat stay bridge.
I'm thinking the issue is that on the rear drive side drop out, the mech hanger takes up space inside where the rear axle sits , but the non drive side is just the drop out with nothing inside, thus creating a non level platform for the axle to rest back on.
Is this a common thing and do I need to have a spacer/wedge inside the non drive side drop out to even it out?? Pics to follow!!!

 

[mullinino]

Re:

nothin to worry about probably....take/get a round file and with the hanger fitted carefully file it back so that it is level with your driveside dropout,follow the shape of the dropout so the axle fits too... you shouldn't be taking enough off your hanger to affect strength, and as your hanger will be Alu it won't take too much effort, SHOULD pull the wheel straight and true again

 

[twain]

Re:

I'd have to take the material off the rear mech hanger, not sure how much would need removing....might give it a try though. Will buy a second hanger just incase!!!

 

[ishaw]

I've just been building a rear wheel and dished it using the frame to make sure it's central. If any of my experience tells me anything, if the wheel is sitting correctly in the drop-outs, it should obviously sit centrally between the stays top and bottom. If the mech hanger is the issue, the whole wheel would be out of alignment between the seat and chain stays as it would be pushed towards the non drive side.

I had a frame that for some reason seemed not to like the rear wheel being fitted, and unless I jiggled it about with a bit of force, would not sit correctly in one if the drop outs, which caused the wheel to look as though it was near central at the bridge, but closer to one stay.

Is the axle sitting correctly in each drop out? Is the axle straight? You shouldn't need to file the frame/mech hanger if it's the correct one of course, but perhaps it's got some damage from use that's preventing the axle sitting where it should?

 

[twain]

Re:






I can get a whole finger down one side :


But not the other....

 

[twain]

Re:

And there's no damage to frame that suggest twisted/bent rear triangle....how would I check the wheel / axle is all good?

 

[ishaw]

If the axle was bent it would be obvious when you.spin it by hand.

I'm no specialised expert so have no clue if the mech hanger is right for the frame, but you'd hope they would have taken the extra few mm it takes up in the drop out at the design stage.

 

[Mike Muz]

Re:

Any possibility of adjustment in the gear hanger? Looks like there's space between axle, hanger and frame drop out

 

[Rampage]

Re:

Take wheel out, turn it around and see if it's the same.
If the gap if then opposite it's the wheel, if not then it's the frame.

If it's the frame then measure from BB shell to dropout on both sides and compare.

Don't start by removing metal!

 

[twain]

Re:

Hadn't thought of the wheel flip idea, won't be removing metal until I know where this issue is coming from. When I fitted the rear wheel, the discrotor was rubbing on the pads quite a bit. Have had to insert some spacers, but this didn't seem abnormal (probably 1mm caliper spacer max, but will check). I'm getting the bike in for a disc brake change anyway, so will give it another closer look later tonight. Thanks for the ideas!