Front Mech for a TA Cyclotourist triple

[sjcprojects]

Another not-too-intrusive option is to slip a bit of outer cable liner (or similar) over the shifter cable where it runs over the shifter barrel. This will effectively increase the barrel's diameter a bit, resulting in more cable pull.

It might give you just the extra bit of pull you need.

Thanks – I did think someone might have an idea for a work-around. I'll see if it does the trick.

 

[non-fixie]

(...)

Looking through a book I've got on classic French builders, there's a lot of Huret Derailleurs from the 60s onwards, but I don't know which ones?

In the 1960's you'll find a lot of Allvit derailleurs being used by French constructeurs, as they were pretty much the best derailleurs of the time.

The internet doesn't like them, but you'll have to keep in mind that is because the internet is ruled by the Americans and Schwinn mounted the Allvit on their cheapest boat anchors in the seventies and eighties. For good reason, but there you go.

I love them and every example I own - and is not entirely rusted through - is mounted on one bike or another.

One major attraction is to see and hear an Allvit in action. I like riding behind mrs non-fixie and watch the Allvit shift.

The front changers, BTW, work beautifully with the narrow French cranks, such as the T.A. Cyclotouriste and the Stronglight 49D:

 

[Tommy27]

I think I've found that exact Huret FD on ebay, but it's listed as for a double, but were they specific?

 

[bikeworkshop]

I think I've found that exact Huret FD on ebay, but it's listed as for a double, but were they specific?

Not really. Loads of reach and the cage comes down far enough at the back to allow maybe a 28t.
I think the limitations can be the cable pull from the lever:

I have a related Stronglight triple issue with a FD. In my case a Campagnolo Record FD works fine in terms of having enough travel, and it doesn't foul the crank-arm (I'm using a Stronglight asymmetric BB axle designed for a triple) - BUT for it to shift over onto the big ring, the shifter has to go ALL the way back so that it's parallel with the ground. Obviously this is not really ideal, but for the right about of cable to be pulled, this is the only way it will do it.

I'm guessing a Suntour Cyclone or similar would solve this, but it wouldn't really look the part on a 60s bike, so it sounds like a Simplex is the only option? And as mentioned, those are rather silly money...

 

[Tommy27]

Need to weigh up which FD to go for then, Huret or Suntour Cyclone.

Going with bar end shifters and I'm planning to either try and get the orginal suntour power ratchet or the dia compe/ rivendell version.. or possibly the simplex retro friction since apparently they have a very similar feel. Wondering if that needs it's own seperate thread?

 

[doctor-bond]

Need to weigh up which FD to go for then, Huret or Suntour Cyclone.

Going with bar end shifters and I'm planning to either try and get the orginal suntour power ratchet or the dia compe/ rivendell version.. or possibly the simplex retro friction since apparently they have a very similar feel. Wondering if that needs it's own seperate thread?

I have a couple of cyclones on the bench: if helpful, happy to supply pics and accurate measurements so you can gauge if there is enough drop.

 

[non-fixie]

Need to weigh up which FD to go for then, Huret or Suntour Cyclone.

Going with bar end shifters and I'm planning to either try and get the orginal suntour power ratchet or the dia compe/ rivendell version.. or possibly the simplex retro friction since apparently they have a very similar feel. Wondering if that needs it's own seperate thread?

I think you have reached a point where all options will/should work technically and the choice is really about the look and feel you want to achieve. 1960's (Huret) or 1980's (SunTour)? Or something else?

 

[doctor-bond]

Okay, for completeness, here’s the drop results for a few 80s mechs with flat cages that might be easier to source. Measurement is for the inner cage when the top of that is level (approximates the seat tube angle, although note that actual ST angle effects your drop). Measurement is not from the photos, they are hard to calibrate and just for reference.

Suntour cyclone 1 = 54mm




Suntour Cyclone 2 standard = 65mm
Suntour Cyclone 2 with extender = 75mm




Shimano Deerhead = 76mm




Shimano ‘Z’ Group (FD-Z206) (Mid 80s recreation group - really not badly put together) = 70mm



Ends.

 

[Tommy27]

Thanks @doctor-bond that's very useful.

Suprised the 1st gen Cyclone is so much smaller in drop, guess the others were influenced by or were for Mountain Bikes and lower triples than were run before.

The 1st gen cyclone would be the best fit aestheticly on a mid- late 70s/ early 80s Bridgestone I guess. Certainly would look good with a Shimano 600 Arabesque rear (long cage, which will hopefully help things). I'm kinda liking the idea of having a bit of a Frankenstein Groupset... in the past I've usually been much keener to keep it within the same line.

Current plan is to run either 48/38/28 or 46/36/26. I'm guessing I need to think about Aesthetics vs performance, but hoping a Suntour Cyclone could cover the above range.

 

[doctor-bond]

Yes, looking at the cyclones side by side the Mk 1 has a flatter curve if that makes sense. My workaround is to pinch the extender from the cyclone 2 and put it on the 1 - but it’s taken a while to find.

I have a spare used Cyclone 1 that you could have a play with; message if you want a borrow.