Front derailleur hanger extension

frkl

Retro Guru
I recently got a Vitus 172 Motobecane frame, I think it is a C2 or something based on that, from sometime around the end of the 1970s to the very early 1980s. Still working on identifying it precisely...

It is nice enough to warrant moving forward, but it has a brazed-on front derailleur hanger (which is not C2-standard, so it could be something different), positioned for a ca. 52 tooth big ring. I can't/don't want to push that anymore, and run max 48 now, more often a 46, big ring.

I found an FSA adapter for almost 40 Euro that lowers the front derailleur. But i am hoping someone here has found a more economical solution? Diy welcome, or suggestions to just cut it off and use a clamp-on front derailleur, also...

Thanks everyone!

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I'd give it a try first, unless you are hoping to use a very small inner ring too it may adjust down to a 46/38 without an adaptor, you can always file a small amount away to get a couple of extra mm. I have a 46/33 double on my road bike on a standard braze-on with 11 speed double Shimano mech, it sits a little high but changes gear and doesn't rub.
 
i know nothing about road bikes
i m normally lurking in 1998+ mtb section
what would happen if you used a bottom bracket mount mtb front derailluer will it work with the road shifter
 
Ok that is good to know! It didn't seem like it would have enough just from looking but you are right i should just try it out. I also usually push the front derailleur down as tight as i can get it, but not doing so would probably work just fine too.

I'll give it a shot later this week.
 
i know nothing about road bikes
i m normally lurking in 1998+ mtb section
what would happen if you used a bottom bracket mount mtb front derailluer will it work with the road shifter
I think if I abandon the hanger, i would probably just use a clamp-on road front, as I have one, rather than going down the bb mounted road. Either way the decision to leave or cut off the hanger would be tough. Leaving it would bother me, cutting it off seems wrong...

I'll see if the hanger has enough downward adjustment first.
 
The other thing that helps if using smaller inner rings is to use a triple front mech, the back part of the cage is deeper and sits lower so the mech operates further down, it should work fine with a double still.
 
The other thing that helps if using smaller inner rings is to use a triple front mech, the back part of the cage is deeper and sits lower so the mech operates further down, it should work fine with a double still.
Also a very good idea which i didn't think of. Thanks!
 
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...lettuce know the outcome of your explorations...

...may be of help to other readers ;)

braze-on front mechs go back at least as far as the fifties

here is a Juy Randonneur model example -

Simplex Randonneur model 22 front mech .jpg Simplex Randonneur braze-on front mech, Peugeot 1957 b)  .jpg Simplex Randonneur braze-on front mech, Peugeot 1957 .jpg


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-----

...lettuce know the outcome of your explorations...

...may be of help to other readers
Will do.

I have a nice Tricolor front from @dree in good condition that I was planning to use, but also just ordered a FD R773 triple FD (Ultegra i think) in "the name of science" to see what difference that makes. The mechanism is very different, the 773 seems to hang much lower, already a plus. Will post the results
 
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I think a triple front mech won't work with the inner ring. The cage will touche the inner ring if the mech is in the right position for the outer ring.

my advice
cut of the braze on, buy a 28.6 klamp and use the shimano 600 braze on front mech.
 

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