Lacing now complete, minus one missing spoke. In the meantime, I had a look at the whole Park Tool catalogue. Except for the SPA-1/2/6 pin spanners, nothing that would resemble the 4-pin thing I'm after.
Two screw drivers in a trench coat? Sorry, I meant two screw drivers in the bench vice? Or better yet a pair of pin punches. If that seems a bit Rich, two masonry nails woth the tip cut off.
So it would rather be four screw drivers or pin punches ;-) As the problem is not being two (the Park Tool SPA-1 pin spanner can do a better job in this aera), but being four to hold the freehub support strongly enough without damaging the pinholes. But the masonry nails is a nice idea: now that I think of, four masonry nails with the tip cut off in a wooden block and the wooden block held in place in a vice.
The splined freehub boss is a permanent part of the cover?
It will be a lot easier to get adequate grip on this. I suspect the alloy of the pin holes will not take the force required to get it moving.
The freehub boss looks a lot like the shimano one - if that's so, you could destroy a shimano fhb to get the socket out... then either grind flats and grip in a vice, or weld a lever arm on to it.
Warm that sucker up before you undo it. Just the shell and I suppose, if you aren't a fire type of person you could use a hot air gun (or a hair dryer, if you want to take it easy). Or freeze spray the other bit.
You're pretty demanding: vice, weld, fire OK, I do have a hair dryer at hand. But for the remaining, I'll have to wait a couple months before having access to a proper workbench. Coincidentally, I was also overhauling yet another, older, Pulstar rear hub (still USA-made) with the reverse problem: shot bearing on the non-drive side, so easier to work on. On this one, there's no pin to disassemble the freehub support, only splines for the freehub itself. So I think you're right @bikeworkshop, the way to go is probably with a socket pluging onto these splines. With fire, @novocaine