Freddie Grubb project - vintage wheelset question

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randomdan":39g3f3pc said:
also found these, but looks like they need a heluva clean, and probably a recrhrome on the rim..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131870094533? ... EBIDX%3AIT

"1. Dunlop “Special Lightweight.” The most common sporting rim of the sporting cyclists. Chrome-plated steel and prone to rust. Warning, whilst re-plating is possible, acids tend to get trapped within the voids and rust re-appears too soon, should you be thinking of going this route why not keep the original rust instead of having later non-period rust?"
see Wheels for 1945-60s classic lightweights
 
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randomdan":2fty9xsu said:
tehtehteh":2fty9xsu said:
what sort of price are you expecting to pay for this? I'm thinking of getting it done on a frame also

I've taken the frame to Vernon Barker, which is very nearby to me and very well respected frame builder local to me. I've had a couple of MTB frames done by them and the work's always outsanding BUT... By the time the dropouts are straightened, the damage on the crown built up and filed down, then stove enameled with contrasting band, decals fitted by them and clearcoated, there won't be much change from 200 quid... A single colour paint with them is £95.

They have a list of paint prices up on their site.
http://www.vernonbarkercycles.co.uk/pri ... aying.html

Yup it's spendy - and powder coating is much cheaper at usualy around 50-60quid. The issue that a powder coater can't fill and flat where the frame has severe pitting, most powder coaters can't do a contrasting colour, or fit decals, repair, apply clear coat etc etc. Sometimes it's appropriate, sometimes not.
thanks, considering the work being done I think the price is ok, though my concern about doing it myself was the durability of the paint and I think with lacquers and self etching primers I can get a paint that won't peel easily anyway, so perhaps for me the money would be better off going into re-chroming the parts that need it
 
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Big Block":32y156mt said:
"1. Dunlop “Special Lightweight.” The most common sporting rim of the sporting cyclists. Chrome-plated steel and prone to rust. Warning, whilst re-plating is possible, acids tend to get trapped within the voids and rust re-appears too soon, should you be thinking of going this route why not keep the original rust instead of having later non-period rust?"
see Wheels for 1945-60s classic lightweights

Respectful of the author, I can't help thinking you could use waxoyl or similar in the voids to slow the corrosion and stop it oozing out. I assume the voids have some kind of drain hole - maybe I'll just make a bid and see what are like when they turn up - the photos ain't so great.

tehtehteh":32y156mt said:
so perhaps for me the money would be better off going into re-chroming the parts that need it
I've got this cost to go through in addition :facepalm:

Still, it's a cheap hobby I guess (in comparason to crystal meth or compulsive gambling)
 
if you don't mind me asking again how much do you expect to pay for the chroming? I have cranks that definitely will need it and probably some parts of the derailleur and bolts
 
tehtehteh":pu7gg62q said:
if you don't mind me asking again how much do you expect to pay for the chroming? I have cranks that definitely will need it and probably some parts of the derailleur and bolts

don't actually know yet, I'm hoping to shortlist re-chrome parts and take a bag up to Prestige Electro plating in Mexborough as they seem to get respect locally.

I know I'll have the cranks, chainring, headset cups, BB cups at least. Depending on what I end up getting, there might also be deraliur parts and bolts.

Finding a "period correct" deraliur is be turning into a minefield also... so I'm long way off ready for chrome restoration.
 
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Now, that IS nice :D and suitably English made too...

I was already looking for plunger types rather than parallelograms after doing a little research, the simplex plunger shifters just seem silly pricy. Will see where this one gets up to - thanks for the tip off
 
hi, i've benelux mk 7 if yr interested. my wheels solution to ensure mmy hill special is as useable as poss is a sturmey am to ride for gears and swap out to fixed when not.
 
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Cheers everyone for advice.

This weekend I've splashed out ebay on some well used dunlop "special" rims and front and back Bayliss wiley hubs. A grand total of 3 rims (one complete with a dink), 2 front low flange hubs and 1 rear low flange hub with what looks like enough space to fit some kind of multi-speed block.

Wait to see what comes now.. hopefully I should end up with a basis for a decent wheelset build. Well - what could possibly go wrong :LOL:
 
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