Fixing a Victorian

[Nabeaquam]

I made the lock ring as it stopped raining. I put a rat tail file in my drill an went round and round the inside of the washer. Once it fit I took a punch and hammered the locking tab into it. I’m feeling more a blacksmith than a mechanic. Lots and lots of hammering, vice squeezing and bending to get it to go back together. I’m taking a break so I don’t get more frustrated.

 

[Mickeyspinn]

I made the lock ring as it stopped raining. I put a rat tail file in my drill an went round and round the inside of the washer. Once it fit I took a punch and hammered the locking tab into it. I’m feeling more a blacksmith than a mechanic. Lots and lots of hammering, vice squeezing and bending to get it to go back together. I’m taking a break so I don’t get more frustrated. View attachment 645654

Take a break have a beer....you've earnt it
That last pic above speaks volumes...
I know you've got a tasty saddle and some cool wheels ready to go....so you are closer than ever...and it's looking so damn good.
I'm putting my dollar down on road bike of the year award....and you for a saint hood for the amount of patience on this

 

[Nabeaquam]

cone wrenches. The threads are apgetting goobered. You really need the original hub, but the threads in the original get goobered squeezing the long side in the fork hole.

 

[Mickeyspinn]

I'm going to translate goobered to mullered I think that's pretty close!
That colour looks amazing with sunlight on it

 

[Nabeaquam]

Getting close to a test ride. I’m hoping for Friday. The weather is predicted to be 25C on Friday. I still have to make one grip, then put on the chain and seat.

I'm going to translate goobered to mullered I think that's pretty close!
That colour looks amazing with sunlight on it

Goobered usually refers to chipped up, stripped threads that was done from carelessness. I think it’s a local saying.

 

[greencat]

Just wow!

 

[grantoury]

Just great to finally see it come together.

 

[Woz]

That is looking sooooo good! Think the graphite finish of the parts is working really well with the frame.

 

[Nabeaquam]

Yeah, we all gotta figure out the right way. In my attic the axle very easily turned on the cone nuts and I brought the short side way back. It looks like the axle could easily be made flush with the cone nut. Then put the long side in, a little struggle to force and grind the axle threads on the long side and pop it in with hardly any spreading. Then thread the axle through the flush side until it’s sticking out even on both sides. When I use replacement hubs with lock nuts it gets more difficult to mount. I think you still might be able to do a lock nut wheel mount easier with patience and thinking instead of grunt force. I’m excited to try thinking, see if something else works with lock nuts. Maybe a combo of ideas, the pickle fork/ball joint/shoehorn idea has promise.

It worked, less spreading but moving the cones and lock nuts over took 20 minutes. To keep the axle from turning I had to clamp it with lock players on the long side and use two different sizes of cone wrenches, one size for the lock nuts and another for the race. It took so long because I had to kneel as my stand isn’t high enough and it was awkward getting arthritic fingers in there. It’s now even on both sides and the axle length is only as long as the nuts, nothing sticks out. Thanks for all the advice and ideas, I would have used my original off set method without all the input.

 

[Nabeaquam]

It’s done except for glue drying on the grip and cork frame pad that prevents the bars from denting the frame. I’ll unwrap the tape holding it together and then post pictures. It weighs 26.6 pounds. I guess it’s possible for it to have weighed around 23 pounds with the original much lighter rims, fewer spokes, lighter original hubs and lightweight single tube racing tires. I have commuter tires and heavy tubes. I don’t think 22 pounds was possible for this bike unless the frame was much smaller.