Mickeyspinn
rBotM Winner
Dunno...sure I could brew up something like a collet but wether it'd work? No ideaNow you probably do have the chops, judging from your threads elsewhere on here..
Dunno...sure I could brew up something like a collet but wether it'd work? No ideaNow you probably do have the chops, judging from your threads elsewhere on here..
I've been wondering this point....I very much doubt it tho...they were savvy but not masochists! The collet would compress enough to go past that shoulder ok...going by diameters and wall thicknesses it's a very fine taper that'll hold amazingly well but with age,missuse and overtightening not worth the risk trying to get it out.
I bet the collet sits on the Internal sleeve btw stopping it from sliding down..the dimpled stuff!
I reckon they'd of reamed the shoulder most likely into the internal laminate of seatube that'd give a good shoulderYep, that sounds more like it. Agree, brazing in a "locknut ring" would be a risky business.
A machined shoulder at the bottom of the taper in the lug would be more sensible to stop it falling out. No shoulder at the top of the collet.
Poor Torqueless ....... blue print version 4.0
Your drawing looks like what I see. The collet moves up. Here is the nut. It’s flat on the bottom. It draws the collet up towards the top of the seat tube.I dunno if my drawings help anyone, or if they're an accurate representation of what's going on here? Anyway- here's another.
It strikes me that if the collet assembly is 2+" deep, it may be (and have been) too long to get in or out via the bb? though I can see it's a large diameter shell by current standards.
I tried to look up old patents for a collet post, no luck. The phosphoric acid treatment, a product called Ospho, is really almost a primer, it has to dry. I pored it into the frame and it made the collet crusty and stiff. I put the post in, wiggled it until the threads came out and tighten the collet nut until the post just got tight, so it still works. After it’s painted I’ll lube and clean it. If you put Ospho on rusty nuts and bolts that have had the rust removed to bare metal the threads won’t work, they grew from the Ospho.It'll be loose as it is...put a finger through nut and into collet ...pull collet up with finger twiddle nut onto thread then post in and nip it up!
I want a colleted seatpost now...hhmm got me wondering about making one now
The post is a tube the gallows is solid. It’s very elegant. Somehow the hollow tube is solid at the top so that the gallows can be attached, I assume with brazing. The bottom of the gallows is flat. Most old gallows posts have a round gallows and the seat turns side to side when clamped. The seat clamp is way different that what we’re used to. It’s also very elegant in its design. The bottom photo has the clamp mounted on the seat structure upside down. The bolt is supposed to stick down toward the top tube.
That's quiet some diameter too. Again, looks incredibly well made and very elegant at the top.
That's a really neat way of doing itThe post is a tube the gallows is solid. It’s very elegant. Somehow the hollow tube is solid at the top so that the gallows can be attached, I assume with brazing. The bottom of the gallows is flat. Most old gallows posts have a round gallows and the seat turns side to side when clamped. The seat clamp is way different that what we’re used to. It’s also very elegant in its design. The bottom photo has the clamp mounted on the seat structure upside down. The bolt is supposed to stick down toward the top tube.View attachment 639185View attachment 639186