Fisher CR7

Funny you should ask. I was just prepping the other frame for media blasting and had chased all of the threads on the frame and fork. There's a block of material inside the BB that secures the chainstays in place and 2 bolts on seat stays/seat tube area. Biggest difference is the dropouts, these are hooded and the older one is standard. Fork is a lot bigger too.
 

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I'm just starting a build of the same frameset - originally grey with black fork and stays, with a 1" headset. However mine has had the U-brake studs moved to the seat stays, and a cable stop bridge welded on too. To help the rear derailleur cable avoid the tyre it has had a cable guide welded underneath the stay. It's the only one I've seen with a seat stay mounted u-brake. Serial number is a very early Y025. Presumably after the modifications were made the fork and stays were painted pink to match the logos. Years on the pink looks pretty scruffy so they are off to the powder coaters tomorrow.

What do the original u-brake studs look like? Mine are quite elegant and round, unlike the boxy ones for later cantilevers. Also how was the rear derailleur cable routed - did it go through the u-brake stud? And is your serial number also a Y0-- ?

I've owned one of these frames for 15 years and it has lived in a mates shed 18,000km away all that time. Was stoked to be able to find another. Unfortunately all my 1 1/4" gear I collected doesn't fit it. Lastly - mine came with a steel Ritchey quill stem - nice looking but a colossal 170mm long!

Watching yours with interest. Cheers, Gareth
 
I'm just starting a build of the same frameset - originally grey with black fork and stays, with a 1" headset. However mine has had the U-brake studs moved to the seat stays, and a cable stop bridge welded on too. To help the rear derailleur cable avoid the tyre it has had a cable guide welded underneath the stay. It's the only one I've seen with a seat stay mounted u-brake. Serial number is a very early Y025. Presumably after the modifications were made the fork and stays were painted pink to match the logos. Years on the pink looks pretty scruffy so they are off to the powder coaters tomorrow.

What do the original u-brake studs look like? Mine are quite elegant and round, unlike the boxy ones for later cantilevers. Also how was the rear derailleur cable routed - did it go through the u-brake stud? And is your serial number also a Y0-- ?

I've owned one of these frames for 15 years and it has lived in a mates shed 18,000km away all that time. Was stoked to be able to find another. Unfortunately all my 1 1/4" gear I collected doesn't fit it. Lastly - mine came with a steel Ritchey quill stem - nice looking but a colossal 170mm long!

Watching yours with interest. Cheers, Gareth

Is that 170 mm C-C? At the risk of derailling this thread, I'd like to see a photo!
 
That's great that these frames are making a comeback/getting more attention, really want to see the progress on yours. The roller brake bosses are round as you say and do look much cleaner than the square jobs like on the fork. Cable does run through the boss, I think that was standard since my Ritchey Ascent and a few others have the same routing. Was able to get the front Amazon rack mounted but with the XCD canti's it took a bit of ingenuity to make the rack bolt on without the mounts locking down the brakes as the XCD's have a recessed bolt unlike Shimano types that do not. I found that a standard 1/4"-20 nut drilled out for clearance and sandwiched between the rack mount backside and the bolt interface on the brakes was a perfect fit and no rubbing issues. Still need some lighting so looking at some rechargeable on Amazon, I'm trying to keep the build under $250.
 

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Yikes, that s a long one LOL. Oh, my serial is Y434. Is the seat post clamp a stainless steel job? Mine had one but I switched out for one I could bolt a rack onto.
 
Nice work getting that rack to fit. I have a mint XCD groupset which I'm saving for a 1990 Cinder Cone, and a scruffy XCD groupset that I probably won't use on mine. Will probably go six speed M730 XT, which would be period correct, plus I have an XT U-Brake. My only Suntour suitable one would be a roller cam and it belongs to an '86 Fat. It's complicated.
 
I was thinking of getting it shortened because it's a nice stem. Shipping from New Zealand could be pricey too. Quality 1" stuff hard to come be here. I have an IRD stem but that's 150mm...
 
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