FINISHED! Another Pace RC200 Rescue Thread

[RickTheUncivil]

Re: Another Pace RC200 Rescue Thread

Word from Dan is that he is now working on the frame repairs.

Unfortunately he has concluded that the ano finish isn't playing ball, and so we are looking at a paint or powder to finish this one off. So many options with pro's and con's each way.

So off to the web I reckon to do some research.

 

[RickTheUncivil]

Re: Another Pace RC200 Rescue Thread

Update from Dan:

I finally managed to get a caustic mix right which would strip the red anodising.
It was pretty strong, so I didn't want to do the whole frame, just the relevant areas

The Anvil frame jig arrived last week, (only 5 months late...), so after a quick bit of familiarisation, I hope to get your frame done this week or next.

Yay! looks like we might get this one rolling soon

 

[RickTheUncivil]

Re:

Some snaps from Dan. Poor frame looks like its suffering

 

[Retro Spud]

Re:

don't pop over to these parts very often....... cool project you got going and with a safe pair of hands.



ref some of the comment on previous pages ref buying something cracked

FWIW I think you'll enjoy the frame more, you see if you buy a minter you'll be forever mithering about being the person who cracked/bust it,
By taking the route you've chosen, it'll allow for a more carefree approach which translates into guilt free enjoyment


One repair or many it doesn't matter anymore, just like loosing the original paint... when thats gone who cares how many more times it gets a fresh coat

 

[jez-4-bikes-max]

Re: Another Pace RC200 Rescue Thread

Black powder coat it and get a nice set of decals from Gil. Done.

Steve Worlands race Pace Rc100 I used to have was black powdercoated if I recall. They just look "right" keeping it standard.

Or you could polish the living bejesus out of it. That would work too.

 

[RickTheUncivil]

Re: Another Pace RC200 Rescue Thread

my logic is similar Spud - if i buy a non-broken frame, it will break. It appears that they all crack in the same places. By taking this route, Dan is putting good tubes in where a minter would have cack tubes, meaning it *won't* break.
Its a bit like it being the F9, a development of the F8 to fix the weaknesses.

Maybe I'll get some custom F9 decals made up and confuse people....


and Jez, I'm definitely leaning towards an original looking finish over something too crazy, its getting the right look that's taking the time. Not sure I want to go matt black, rather a shiny ano-looking finish.

 

[TheBear1978]

Re: Another Pace RC200 Rescue Thread

my logic is similar Spud - if i buy a non-broken frame, it will break. It appears that they all crack in the same places. By taking this route, Dan is putting good tubes in where a minter would have cack tubes, meaning it *won't* break.
Its a bit like it being the F9, a development of the F8 to fix the weaknesses.

Maybe I'll get some custom F9 decals made up and confuse people....


and Jez, I'm definitely leaning towards an original looking finish over something too crazy, its getting the right look that's taking the time. Not sure I want to go matt black, rather a shiny ano-looking finish.

 

[Retro Spud]

Re: Another Pace RC200 Rescue Thread

my logic is similar Spud - if i buy a non-broken frame, it will break. It appears that they all crack in the same places. By taking this route, Dan is putting good tubes in where a minter would have cack tubes, meaning it *won't* break.
Its a bit like it being the F9, a development of the F8 to fix the weaknesses.

Maybe I'll get some custom F9 decals made up and confuse people....


and Jez, I'm definitely leaning towards an original looking finish over something too crazy, its getting the right look that's taking the time. Not sure I want to go matt black, rather a shiny ano-looking finish.

Now that would require a MoFo amount of elbow grease and an industrial polishing wheel to get it like that
And even then your not finished as it would need either a clear coat (not that durable on a polished surface) or a clear powder coat applying

To be honest unless it was a frame with special significance or a bonifide unicorn then it’s not worth it. Besides by the time it was finished to a factory standard I’d wouldn’t be able to ride the darn thing knowing how much time and effort was invested.

 

[Retro Spud]

Re:

That’s two posts now in the post 97 section for me :shock:

Off to thrash myself now with birch twigs and freshly dug stinging nettles for this out of character transgression and moment of weakness

 

[TheBear1978]

Re: Another Pace RC200 Rescue Thread

my logic is similar Spud - if i buy a non-broken frame, it will break. It appears that they all crack in the same places. By taking this route, Dan is putting good tubes in where a minter would have cack tubes, meaning it *won't* break.
Its a bit like it being the F9, a development of the F8 to fix the weaknesses.

Maybe I'll get some custom F9 decals made up and confuse people....


and Jez, I'm definitely leaning towards an original looking finish over something too crazy, its getting the right look that's taking the time. Not sure I want to go matt black, rather a shiny ano-looking finish.

Now that would require a MoFo amount of elbow grease and an industrial polishing wheel to get it like that
And even then your not finished as it would need either a clear coat (not that durable on a polished surface) or a clear powder coat applying

To be honest unless it was a frame with special significance or a bonifide unicorn then it’s not worth it. Besides by the time it was finished to a factory standard I’d wouldn’t be able to ride the darn thing knowing how much time and effort was invested.

Brand-new unbuilt frame, never been touched since 2004, latest F8 I have ever seen for sale, build now in progress