Filling dents - Cataloy.

dyna-ti

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I'm currently renovating a Kona kikapu deluxe, and having now got all the paint off I need to address 2 little dents before putting on a heavy undercoat.

So nobody thinks im hiding structural damage, the dents are tiny and not alone now I have the factory paint off. Dear lordy theres quite a few that the Kona painter has filled before finishing, I wasnt actually expecting to see such, but it shows that small dents are nothing, and filling and repainting is the way to sort it.

Donkeys ago did a short evening class in car stuff, including bodywork repairs, so im not entirely clueless but this was 30 years ago and I wondered if there was anything other than cataloy, maybe a bit better developed :? longer open time, or rapid set :? or are we still using cataloy in the tried and tested method.

I'd prefer a two pack filler, that way the open time can be adjusted.

Ta oh knowledgeable ones :cool:

PS
I use a 2 pack wood filler, which feels when dry similar to cataloy, albeit a woody colour. Anyone know if its the same stuff ?
 
Re:

When i filled a small dent in an alloy Kona i used an alloy filler meant for alloy wheels that i found on ebay.
 
Re:

I'd say go with what you know works.
Is it going to be a top end finish for the final outcome?
Will you be respraying it yourself?

Time and patience will pay dividends, so don't rush and get as near perfect finish to your repair before top coat.

I know you said you did a body repair course years ago and paint has moved on a lot since then. Almost all paint now is water based so trying to find some old real cellulose will be a problem.

Don't forget it's etch primer for alloy, not regular primer
 
You can use an easy sand body filler P38 or similar easy sand
and high build primer filler and high build primer filler which comes in an aerosol .
The trick is getting the filler as smooth as possible if the edges of filler look sharp then it's not right all the edges need to be feathered out and almost see through. I should feel like a baby's bum when you run you hand over it any ripples and you need to refill.
I gently use a heat gun to make both the filler and primmer cure quicker .
Once I have put on lots of coats of primmer on I leave over night to harden then flat off with 320 grit or finer production paper used dry I now never use wet and dry paper .
Once you have filled it and are happy you can always approach a local small Body shop and ask if they could prime it when they have their primmer in the gun a small independent will probably only charge £10 to £15 as they will only throw away what's left in the gun that way it would be a good deal as you then don't have to buy the paint.
 
Gruff":1k85px27 said:
When i filled a small dent in an alloy Kona i used an alloy filler meant for alloy wheels that i found on ebay.


WandsworthRouleur":1k85px27 said:
Have a mooch around Halfords.

Something like this, maybe? https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paint ... -cartridge

Found a vid, and its looking ideal, and it is under paint.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUY52azwqu8

I think id rather the one in the vid rather than the 'tube' as that i think is pretty must a one shot deal and ill want to use the remaining filler for timber projects. Multi pouches and a pouch of hardener is best for me.

Retro junkie":1k85px27 said:
I'd say go with what you know works.
Is it going to be a top end finish for the final outcome?
Will you be respraying it yourself?

Time and patience will pay dividends, so don't rush and get as near perfect finish to your repair before top coat.

I know you said you did a body repair course years ago and paint has moved on a lot since then. Almost all paint now is water based so trying to find some old real cellulose will be a problem.

Don't forget it's etch primer for alloy, not regular primer

Thanks for the info on the 'acid etch' .I'll look into the info on that :cool:

And yeah likely be doing it myself, but im a furniture maker so spending a lot of time working a finish, is kind of what I do, so ill get something shiny and acceptable even off a spray can. Just as you say down to taking the time and putting in the effort.


Cheers all. Something to be getting on with :D
 
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Bought P38. Filled, sanded.
Thanks for the recommendations all the same :cool:
Retro junkie":1fcjwasp said:
Don't forget it's etch primer for alloy, not regular primer
Next job is self etching primer.
Found a good vid on it, using the extreme way to test its worthiness. Placed into vibrating ceramic stones
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgFRzKPO6mg

Rust-Oleum, the 2nd last on the right. Though the non etch did better, this is just the one test and i think ill stick to the recommended etching version.
 
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