Fillet Brazed Steel meets Amp
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cherrybomb
Old School Grand Master
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I think I've just found my new favourite bike! :shock:
Stunning, I love the brazed detail under the lacquer....beautiful.
Oh, and welcome!
Stunning, I love the brazed detail under the lacquer....beautiful.
Oh, and welcome!
That's superb, and a very tasteful build too.
I believe Reynolds 653 is very similar in its dynamic characteristics to 853, isn't it? But Reynolds had to develop 853 because 653 can't be TIG-welded, as it can only withstand the lower temperatures involved with brazing. I must say I'm surprised the bike is so light, but the tubes look very skinny, perhaps all of them 28.6. And as others have said, the confidence to show off the brazing under the clear powdercoat is a very nice touch indeed.
I think it's also very clever for a hand builder to be able to design a full-suspension frame so well, but to be realistic I guess the design must have been preempted to a large extent by adopting the AMP rear end, mustn't it? The AMP must surely dictate that the pivot point be exactly where it is, which would take some of the more difficult theorising out of the equation. But even so, it's impressive for any year, let alone as early as 1993.
I believe Reynolds 653 is very similar in its dynamic characteristics to 853, isn't it? But Reynolds had to develop 853 because 653 can't be TIG-welded, as it can only withstand the lower temperatures involved with brazing. I must say I'm surprised the bike is so light, but the tubes look very skinny, perhaps all of them 28.6. And as others have said, the confidence to show off the brazing under the clear powdercoat is a very nice touch indeed.
I think it's also very clever for a hand builder to be able to design a full-suspension frame so well, but to be realistic I guess the design must have been preempted to a large extent by adopting the AMP rear end, mustn't it? The AMP must surely dictate that the pivot point be exactly where it is, which would take some of the more difficult theorising out of the equation. But even so, it's impressive for any year, let alone as early as 1993.
Corduroyboy
Gold Trader
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This takes jealousy to a whole new level...
Hand made for you :shock:
Still looks brand new :shock:
Family built :shock:
Makes my interest in Retrobikes seem completely insignificant...
As close to absolute zero as I have seen
Hand made for you :shock:
Still looks brand new :shock:
Family built :shock:
Makes my interest in Retrobikes seem completely insignificant...
As close to absolute zero as I have seen
Spacely Sprockets
Retro Newbie
Thanks, everyone, for the kind words and the warm welcome.
For those unfamiliar with fillet brazing (though I'm certainly no expert): Unlike Tungsten Inert Gas arc-welding, which actually melts the tube material at around 2000 degrees F. in order to fuse the tubes together, brazing uses brass (or occasionally silver) - which has a lower melting point than the steel tubes - as a metal filler to 'glue' the tubes together.
The tubes are heated to the melting point of the brass filler (1600 degrees F.) and the brass flows onto the tubing, diffusing into the steel to form a metallurgical bond. The same process is called soldering when working with low temperature fillers like lead or tin.
A fillet brazed frame will be around 4 oz. heavier than a welded one but, IME, they tend to be damn strong, even with stupid-thin steel.
Before filing and sanding (a critical stage; any filing mistakes can create stress risers in the steel tube):
After:
Bead-blasted and clear-coated:
For those unfamiliar with fillet brazing (though I'm certainly no expert): Unlike Tungsten Inert Gas arc-welding, which actually melts the tube material at around 2000 degrees F. in order to fuse the tubes together, brazing uses brass (or occasionally silver) - which has a lower melting point than the steel tubes - as a metal filler to 'glue' the tubes together.
The tubes are heated to the melting point of the brass filler (1600 degrees F.) and the brass flows onto the tubing, diffusing into the steel to form a metallurgical bond. The same process is called soldering when working with low temperature fillers like lead or tin.
A fillet brazed frame will be around 4 oz. heavier than a welded one but, IME, they tend to be damn strong, even with stupid-thin steel.
Before filing and sanding (a critical stage; any filing mistakes can create stress risers in the steel tube):
After:
Bead-blasted and clear-coated:
kanerdog1x1
Senior Retro Guru
fantastic. ive got a few curtis frames from the uk www.curtisbikes.co.uk gary brazes frames together usually from t45, but he doesnt file the frames, he is a master at making the brass look like tig welds, very impressive stuff. he is also a fan of clearcoat on a blasted frame.
