Drill modding for polishing - protect me from the stupid
- Thread starter markoc
- Start date
I honestly would, and for my own builds I have absolutely done it.
However I have a bunch of mid level surplus that needs to be tittivated before moving it on, and I just haven't got the time or energy. Just need to make the dull dreary stuff all lovely and shiny, with minimal effort before I label it up as "RETRO KULT OLDSKOOL - NOT ZASKAR - LOOOOOK !!!111!!!" and put it on the bay.
Not heard of that - is it a cutting polish? Using autosol as I use it on exhaust tips, but always up for a better suggestion.
Graham_hkr
Specialized Fan
A drill is not the best item to use tbh ( in your words above) Uness you have a variable speed drill where you can slow it down considerably?
If it's too fast all you will do is splatter autosol all over the place but not where you want it.
Clarks have a double-ended 6" polishing kit for just under 35 sobs, will fit the bill & keep you safe-ish while polishing...
Hang on, hang on, lets get some bits straight here......
Yes, a bench polisher is better as its more stable and you might get a guard with it ( your going to want to rip off after 20 seconds guaranteed)
As for speed and the previous comment about power....
clarke 8" polisher is £117, 370w and spins at 2850 rpm
Cheapo clarke corded drill ( exactly what ive been using at home for last 15 years).. is now £15, 550w and spins at a constant ( you guessed it) 2800 rpm.
Even the clarke 6" bench polisher with a better motor is only 500w, and thats £150!
So i would say a drill in a workmate is fine, PROVIDED, its in there well and it has a trigger lock.
To be honest all rotational polishers, grinders etc all carry a degree of risk due to the open nature of the wheel....its why there is a whole special section on use in engineering h&s....its boring, but when your using a 3 phase 12" polisher, that will pull your fingers off and throw stuff the length of a silo.....worth knowing.
Just keep wearing the specs and expect a grey face!
Be safe out there.
Yes, a bench polisher is better as its more stable and you might get a guard with it ( your going to want to rip off after 20 seconds guaranteed)
As for speed and the previous comment about power....
clarke 8" polisher is £117, 370w and spins at 2850 rpm
Cheapo clarke corded drill ( exactly what ive been using at home for last 15 years).. is now £15, 550w and spins at a constant ( you guessed it) 2800 rpm.
Even the clarke 6" bench polisher with a better motor is only 500w, and thats £150!
So i would say a drill in a workmate is fine, PROVIDED, its in there well and it has a trigger lock.
To be honest all rotational polishers, grinders etc all carry a degree of risk due to the open nature of the wheel....its why there is a whole special section on use in engineering h&s....its boring, but when your using a 3 phase 12" polisher, that will pull your fingers off and throw stuff the length of a silo.....worth knowing.
Just keep wearing the specs and expect a grey face!
Be safe out there.
"So i would say a drill in a workmate is fine, PROVIDED, its in there well and it has a trigger lock."
Good luck with that one today. I'm hanging on my two Swiss made Bosch CSB-470-RLE because the spec. is precisely what
you stated above. Seen in action here, put in a bench vice.
Good luck with that one today. I'm hanging on my two Swiss made Bosch CSB-470-RLE because the spec. is precisely what
you stated above. Seen in action here, put in a bench vice.
yes just a bit finer than autosols (aluminuim version) polish which is also finer itself than normal regular autosol. so good for the final mirror finish.
If somethings bad i do the plain autosol first to get the worst off then the mothers. i do have all the buff wheels and polish bars for a bench grinder but its such a messy process but good if the metal needs more working.
