Downgrading my ride, disc to v

Never had a problem with hydraulic brakes. Have bled brakes and fitted new pads.
Easy enough to lever pistons in to fit new pads
Just don't leave them sitting for ages not doing anything
Sometimes fitting new pads you need to crack the bleed screw a little amount
 
Never had a problem with hydraulic brakes. Have bled brakes and fitted new pads.
Easy enough to lever pistons in to fit new pads
Just don't leave them sitting for ages not doing anything
Sometimes fitting new pads you need to crack the bleed screw a little amount

Also its a good idea to pump the pistons out a bit, then open the bleed nipple and push the pistons back in, where you then close the nipple. It helps expel any air trapped behind the pistons.
Appreciate the tips lads

Will have to look into hydraulic brake maintenance it seems as I will probably leave the bike with the brakes that are on for a good while until I start changing stuff and making things worse. ;)
 
They are indeed pretty maintenance free, and anyone says different is doing something wrong. The stock cheapies(4 pot shimano m501's) that came on my ebike are now 8 months old and ive yet to do anything to them, though a pad change is probably in the offing.
 
2004 Gary Fisher Solstice comfort bike (Trek Navigator with a Rockshox coil/oil fork). 1500W BBSHD conversion. Urban South Florida riding.
BB7s with EBC metallic pads and Shimano ICE aluminum core rotors. 203F/180R. Jagwire Elite alloy cable housings, cables, and full metal jacket for the fixed sections. No problem locking up the back wheel because it's usually in the air. 280# all up and 35mph top speed. Adjust the pads about once a week, swap them out about 5 months. Can't think of any reason to stop using them. Lots of water around here.
Tires are Schwalbe Big Ben 26x2.25. Maybe if you ride around in the dirt, or have skinny tires you don't need these brakes.
 
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