Do you fit your own headsets?

Re:

At the risk of sounding like a total misguided noob, what's this about stack height???

And what exactly should I be checking for?

Still trying to get my head around threaded 1-inch versus non threaded. Noob. :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm:
 
Stack height is just the height that the upper and lower cups extend beyond the head tube. Changing to a headset with a different stack height brings the fork steerer length into play when you reinstall your stem etc. Moving to a lower stack height means more steerer is exposed; this is a minor issue, as the additional length can be taken up with spacers. Moving to a higher stack will mean less steerer is exposed, and could cause issues with safely clamping the stem on to the steerer (depending on how many spacers were installed before the headset change).

In all honesty, stack heights will be much of a muchness. Generally speaking the difference will be only a couple of mm here or there, which means the above probably wont apply (to any great extent).
 
mattr":13b9iwsd said:
Sounds like the voice of bitter experience......

Not really Just the voice of an Ex Pro mechanic!!
Threaded headsets!!
Tange headsets can vary from 34.4 -45.7mm depending on the model
Most Campagnolo road headsets are 40-42mm, Track ones have a lower stack height 33.7 - 38.5mm
Shimano D/A 31-40mm
Ultegra 33.8-37.6mm
 
I bought the headset fitting tools on Wiggle as I was fed up with bashed knuckles etc . The press tool can be used on press fit BB's as Well. If you are near Chatham in Kent I will do it while you wait.
The DIY toll in photo looks really good to me and will work fine. The Crown race "bashing on Tool" is worth buying but it does look like a vacuum cleaner nozzle...LOL
Don't trust bike shops at all except perhaps Condors in London There aren't many left down here in kent!!!
 
Re:

Hi oonaf,

Not wishing to take any business away from kind forumites, however, if you're into your retro cycles then I can heartily recommend dropping into the Mary Mary cafe on Roscoe Street, which is also the home of Sparrow Cycles:

http://www.sparrowcycles.co.uk/

Steve is a fantastic chap and extremely talented cycle builder and there's a cycle workshop at the back of the cafe, as well as a lovely collection of bikes on display. If you were to stop by for a coffee and take your frame with you, you might be able to persuade Steve or one of his mates to knock the headset in/out for you.

I fit my own, btw, much along the lines of everyone else here. I can recommend a proper tool for removing the cups though as it takes all the hassle out of it. Something like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ice-Toolz-Hea ... 27f3d392ab

Have fun!
 
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I use a similar homemade tool to the one in the pic. The hardest part is keeping everything aligined, and the threaded rod centered along the line of the HT. I found copper pipe too flexible for well-stuck cups, so bought some 20mm thin steel pipe. I think 2m of the stuff cost a couple of quid, which works out at about 20p per tool :)

The only headset tool I have bought is a crown race remover - about 20 quid from ebay I think. It was new, but I forget the make. It makes life so much easier than using a screwdriver and hammer, no risk of bashed knuckles or anything else, and no (or very minimal) marking to the fork crown. Well worth what I paid for it!
 
hi s1monR. thanks for the info.yeah since joining this forum ive developed a list
of things to achieve, wheel building,box and lug lining.stitched leather h bar tape+harlequin.
i even dream about getting some lugs made and hand cutting them myself to an intricate design &
having them gold plated on a bespoke frame and perhaps one day learning skill's and building
my own frame..i know id get a great sense of achievement from doing these m self :)

merry xmas to all you guy's and for your passion for steel :xmas-wink:
 
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