Disc brake question (possibly dumb)

but your only 4'8" :LOL:

will report back on wheel later ,need to check the stores
 
mikee":eua3brf1 said:
but your only 4'8" :LOL:

will report back on wheel later ,need to check the stores

I like to think I'm build for hard climbs.

Sadly my legs disagree.
 
I have found that, as long as the pads/ discs are clean, just about any of the cable operated calipers work ok. Use quality cables and outers and keep everything well lubed and they should stop you well.

They tend to be very simple too, with just an allen key required for pad adjustment.

There are some cable operated hydraulic ones that I had but I cant remember who made them.

*edit - just remember that they do need to bed in, they'll feel 'glassy' at first

and cheap too, if you like: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-140mm-rear-16 ... 500wt_1156.
 
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if it were my bike i would put a hydro one one , and put up with odd levers, i personalty don't think cable disk brakes are any better than a good set of V brakes, you can get a good hydro one for less that the BB9 goes for and it will have much much more power, with no cables to get stiff and full of mud , cables suck! up to you though. :)
 
scottrider":1okc1ocm said:
if it were my bike i would put a hydro one one , and put up with odd levers, i personalty don't think cable disk brakes are any better than a good set of V brakes, you can get a good hydro one for less that the BB9 goes for and it will have much much more power, with no cables to get stiff and full of mud , cables suck! up to you though. :)

It isn't really about extra stopping power, more to do with keeping the braking surfaces clean. And cable means I can keep my learning curve fairly flat.
 
Tazio":3egbtrfh said:
scottrider":3egbtrfh said:
if it were my bike i would put a hydro one one , and put up with odd levers, i personalty don't think cable disk brakes are any better than a good set of V brakes, you can get a good hydro one for less that the BB9 goes for and it will have much much more power, with no cables to get stiff and full of mud , cables suck! up to you though. :)

It isn't really about extra stopping power, more to do with keeping the braking surfaces clean. And cable means I can keep my learning curve fairly flat.

the way cable disks work means they rub a lot and don't self adjust like hydros do, much more hassle, hydro hoses are much more robust and long lived that a cable ever will be, they never get mud in them, they are a much better but its ur bike, personalty i think you should maybe try a bike with hydro disk brakes on then one with a cable disk on, then make up your mind before you part with you're cash.:)
also bleeding brakes is a dodle, if you can cut a bit of pipe put some oil in a small hole, then you can do it at home youre self, lots of how to videos on you tube! :)
 
cable operated calipers dont rub at all if they are set up correctly.

The cable operates a cam that pushes the outer pad onto the disc and onto the inner pad. The reach is adjusted via the cable and left to right adjustment is usually via an allen key or an adjustment knob. depending on model.
 
Cable isn't as trouble-free as hydro, because you do need to adjust them manually as the pads wear. OTOH you don't need to bleed them either. I use one on one bike just because I didn't want to use just one Avid Ultimate lever ;)
 
legrandefromage":2ep4j14u said:
cable operated calipers dont rub at all if they are set up correctly.

The cable operates a cam that pushes the outer pad onto the disc and onto the inner pad. The reach is adjusted via the cable and left to right adjustment is usually via an allen key or an adjustment knob. depending on model.


yep this design means that one pad always whereas down faster than the other, and you have to adjust it a lot to keep it working at its best, with hydro's you do not have thse problems, .. personalty i would not bother with cable disks, just my opinion though:)
 
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