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Re:

Have you adjusted H screw (and not just cable pull)? It sets the limit of travel for the smaller sprockets.

Otherwise, is the hanger straight?
 
Re: RD MT60 Problem

Firstly I'd undo the tension B screw a little bit, to me it looks like the mech is tracking way too far away from the cassette for a start, which will lead to sloppy and hesitant changes (especially if you are running an old or worn chain). As Blue Tom has said above, have you loosened off the upper and lower limit screws? Finally when you say it wont shift into 1 and 2 - I assume you mean the largest 2 cogs on the block, or do you mean the smallest 2 cogs?
 
Re: RD MT60 Problem

Oldskool13":1x4ustbj said:
TOMAS":1x4ustbj said:
Firstly I'd undo the tension B screw a little bit, to me it looks like the mech is tracking way too far away from the cassette for a start, which will lead to sloppy and hesitant changes (especially if you are running an old or worn chain). As Blue Tom has said above, have you loosened off the upper and lower limit screws? Finally when you say it wont shift into 1 and 2 - I assume you mean the largest 2 cogs on the block, or do you mean the smallest 2 cogs?


It's the low gears, larger cogs. The chain is brand new, I've tried the adjustment screws, it seemed to work briefly then it stopped and the cable went very tight and the shifter sprung back to third gear. The hanger looks straight but I'll check it again.

To be honest I'm tempted to put the RD-TY15 back on. It might not be as sexy but at least it worked. :(

If I were you I'd unwind the very top adjustment screw as seen in the pic to bring the top jockey closer into the block and see if that helps. I also think as you suggested you'll find the mech has been effectively thrown around 5mm more outboard by the adapter plate... if it were me, I'd mark the adapter plate just below where it mates against the frame dropout, put the adapter plate in a big bench vice and effectively knock 2x 45degree folds into it with a large hammer or better still bite it with a large adjustable spanner and lever it, first one inboard just below where the frame mates against it, second one 45deg outboard about 8-10mm parallel below the first fold... you should find this then effectively brings it back inline with what a regular dropout/frame hanger would be, you might then need to then re-add some B-Tension screw as the whole mech will be slightly higher towards the actual cassette.

I'm thinking it will work, however i'm just back from the pub and no every idea after the pub always works for me...
 
Re:

How about putting the adapter plate inside the dropout ? You may have to spread the frame slightly ( 4/5mm )
but you will be able to reach the lower gears , and it will look better

However I think you should go back to basics , remove the chain and loosen the shifter cable in order to check the free
movement of the mech . Adjust the Hi/Lo limit screws as required and tighten the shifter cable . Check the full range
movement again before fitting the chain . It could be that you connected the shifter to the mech with the shifter in
the wrong position ?
 
Re: Re:

Oldskool13":11j7to63 said:
focomat 1c":11j7to63 said:
How about putting the adapter plate inside the dropout ? You may have to spread the frame slightly ( 4/5mm )
but you will be able to reach the lower gears , and it will look better

However I think you should go back to basics , remove the chain and loosen the shifter cable in order to check the free
movement of the mech . Adjust the Hi/Lo limit screws as required and tighten the shifter cable . Check the full range
movement again before fitting the chain . It could be that you connected the shifter to the mech with the shifter in
the wrong position ?


Thanks for the advice I'll try going back to basics again. One thing I didn't consider is the chain might be too tight with the addition of the the adapter because it was set up with the RD-TY15. So I might try adding a couple of links.

From photo - if thats in big ring upfront then I'd say chain is fine, that mech can go almost straight out forward until it's too tight. Old rule is run the chain around both large cogs (no mechs involved) and add 2 links...
 

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