What's wrong with the down tube shifters? Simplicity and beauty combined.
Dawes Super Galaxy - Early 1980s 531 - Questions and upgrades to early 1990s spec
- Thread starter Steel_My_Heart
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Taller frame, it's a long way Down!
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Looking at the wheels, what you are reading is more likely to be tire size
as for gearing, if you have a screw on hub, you are a bit limited as to what you can use, if it is a Uniglide, they are easy to swap out, giving you more options for your gearing whilst retaining the existing mechs
as for gearing, if you have a screw on hub, you are a bit limited as to what you can use, if it is a Uniglide, they are easy to swap out, giving you more options for your gearing whilst retaining the existing mechs
jim haseltine
Senior Retro Guru
Front hub is a Campag Record, what little I can see of the rear QR suggests that it's Record too. Mixture of 622/630 rim sizes means the hub might be something else but I'd go with it having a screw on freewheel.
Steel_My_Heart
Retro Newbie
Interesting find, thank you. Aside from the canti mounts, which as you said could have been added during the respray, that frame and fork look the same as mine. Have messaged the seller asking if there is a date stamp on the frame.
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Steel_My_Heart
Retro Newbie
Thanks for the replies. I'll see how it goes with the downtube shifters as want to retain what I can and put funds towards wheels and crankset etc. The rear being a different size to the front should be changed so they're both 622, just for less hassle later on.
I've bought a set of Shimano Deore DX hubs on Alesa 917 rims, so I hope the rear fits. If it doesn't they can go on a 1990s Super Galaxy I have.
Also bought this triple crankset. Will this be ok? As long as I get the correct width BB, no problems with chain alignment for the rear mech?
I've bought a set of Shimano Deore DX hubs on Alesa 917 rims, so I hope the rear fits. If it doesn't they can go on a 1990s Super Galaxy I have.
Also bought this triple crankset. Will this be ok? As long as I get the correct width BB, no problems with chain alignment for the rear mech?
I would not change out the cranks, that is stunning looking.
Also, the hubs are grease port Campys, those are very nice hubs and very easy to maintain, all you need is a small bicycle grease gun, insert the fitting into the hole, and gently squeeze the grease which will ooze out of the sides of the hub, keep it oozing till the grease looks new, wipe off the overflowed greased and you're good to go, no bother with taking the hub apart and cleaning and regreasing. I have a set of Campy and Suntour hubs that have those ports, the Campy was made in 1976 or 77, and the Suntour was 84 or 85, and they have a lot of miles on those bearings but because I keep the grease clean they're still rolling on the original bearings; all my other types of hubs I've had to replace the bearings, but only because I'm too lazy to do all the work to keep them happy.
The rims look sort of bad, appears to have wear grooves on the sides and some corrosion as well.
Now for a more of a personal opinion. I know you don't want to do this, but you already have drillium crankset, that bike would look really cool if you continued that look with brake levers. Putting 90's era stuff makes that bike look out of place, as the current derailleurs and shifters do now. Keep in mind, that the further you get away from the type of components that came with the bike, the less it is worth. Just a thought.
By the way, Velo Orange has drillium cranksets as well as drillium brake levers, all brand new, they have downtube shifters that look old school but are brand new. So you can either go with mostly newly made drillium parts, or go with all old school stuff; the problem with old school cranks is finding the gear rings when they wear out, so going with the newly made one eliminates having that issue. Don't be scared of older parts, if taken care of they will last a long long time, I have a bike made in 1977 with the original Campy components, and this stuff just doesn't die, same with my 85 bike with Suntour components. Having a bike with drillium parts hanging would be the source of many conversations when out riding, you would have a very unique looking bike, and I have the feeling that the bike originally had drillium components due to the crankset, if that is true your bike is probably an early 80's bike? Also, when Dawes came out with those cranksets, the bikes also came with Campy Nuovo Record derailleurs, those are the derailleurs I have on my 77 Raleigh Competition, they are very beautiful to look at, nothing made since those look remotely to the artwork detail done on those derailleurs. You can pick up nearly unused, or NOS Nuovo Record derailleurs for around $100 for the rear, and I saw the complete package, rear, front derailleur and shifters for $230 on Ebay.
Also, the hubs are grease port Campys, those are very nice hubs and very easy to maintain, all you need is a small bicycle grease gun, insert the fitting into the hole, and gently squeeze the grease which will ooze out of the sides of the hub, keep it oozing till the grease looks new, wipe off the overflowed greased and you're good to go, no bother with taking the hub apart and cleaning and regreasing. I have a set of Campy and Suntour hubs that have those ports, the Campy was made in 1976 or 77, and the Suntour was 84 or 85, and they have a lot of miles on those bearings but because I keep the grease clean they're still rolling on the original bearings; all my other types of hubs I've had to replace the bearings, but only because I'm too lazy to do all the work to keep them happy.
The rims look sort of bad, appears to have wear grooves on the sides and some corrosion as well.
Now for a more of a personal opinion. I know you don't want to do this, but you already have drillium crankset, that bike would look really cool if you continued that look with brake levers. Putting 90's era stuff makes that bike look out of place, as the current derailleurs and shifters do now. Keep in mind, that the further you get away from the type of components that came with the bike, the less it is worth. Just a thought.
By the way, Velo Orange has drillium cranksets as well as drillium brake levers, all brand new, they have downtube shifters that look old school but are brand new. So you can either go with mostly newly made drillium parts, or go with all old school stuff; the problem with old school cranks is finding the gear rings when they wear out, so going with the newly made one eliminates having that issue. Don't be scared of older parts, if taken care of they will last a long long time, I have a bike made in 1977 with the original Campy components, and this stuff just doesn't die, same with my 85 bike with Suntour components. Having a bike with drillium parts hanging would be the source of many conversations when out riding, you would have a very unique looking bike, and I have the feeling that the bike originally had drillium components due to the crankset, if that is true your bike is probably an early 80's bike? Also, when Dawes came out with those cranksets, the bikes also came with Campy Nuovo Record derailleurs, those are the derailleurs I have on my 77 Raleigh Competition, they are very beautiful to look at, nothing made since those look remotely to the artwork detail done on those derailleurs. You can pick up nearly unused, or NOS Nuovo Record derailleurs for around $100 for the rear, and I saw the complete package, rear, front derailleur and shifters for $230 on Ebay.
Agency_Scum
Retrobike Rider
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Mate that's LUSH! Here's my 1st year model '76 Galaxy " resto-mod ".....
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/my-new-bike-updated.447702/page-3
I'm very post-nightshift groggy at the mo but I'll be happy to pop by later or answer any questions about my favourite bike model ( I've restored 3 so far; the '78 and '78 and a badly crash damaged '96 ).
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/my-new-bike-updated.447702/page-3
I'm very post-nightshift groggy at the mo but I'll be happy to pop by later or answer any questions about my favourite bike model ( I've restored 3 so far; the '78 and '78 and a badly crash damaged '96 ).
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