Dawes Galaxy - Refurb - a few problems.

[Montague Rhodes]

Hi everyone.

I've finally got my hands on a Galaxy* and cosmetically at least it's in fine condition. Chocolate brown. Hello!
I think it dates from the very early 80's, the typical mix of Japanese and GB parts:

Weinmann 610 / 750 centre pull brakes.
Suntour VX, ft & rear.
Sakae cranks. (what lead me to an early 80's guess.)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/contactjo ... ed-public/

As I say the paintwork is really lovely still. Tiny dinks here and there, but nowt else. As such I want to respect the period in the rebuild of it and keep as much of the original bike as poss. I really don't imagine it ever actually toured - more of a shopper/runaround.

There's three issues I'm pondering:

One. Seat stem. Currently a 27.2 short (too short.) post with no rail fixings. I don't l;ike them much and want to swap it for the likes of a modern alloy stem. When I move the current stem around though, it is so tight that it's leaving metal flakes in a sort of paste at the clamp area!? Is that usual, and is it likely that a 27.0 stem would be better?

Two. The front derailleur, a Suntour VX, is quite bent out of parallel. It still works but it looks less than clever. Can you bend these things back into shape satisfactorily? F.I. this one? What would some of you lot do?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/contactjo ... ed-public/

Three. Potentially the most serious. There's some play in the bottom bracket. I can wiggle(tm) the cranks about 5mm at the pedal end. I can also feel some grittiness when turning the cranks backwards - not horrible, but obvious enough.
I haven't yet taken the pedals or cranks off to look in the B.B. Should new bearings and packing out fix it? Maybe even just tightening it?

Should the BB be knackered can I just replace it for a new square tapered one for the same crank set? (The cassette and front cogs all look great too.) I don't want new gears on this, partially cost but more disrespecting a really nice period bike.

(That said, I'm probably going to put gel "Bianchi turquoise" bar tape on it...)


Thanks in advance for those of you that can help me!


*SN. NO4498 (like that helps anyone with a Dawes bike.)

 

[legrandefromage]

I have the same issue with a 1986 MTB. The original 27.2 is very tight where a 27.0 fits nicely.

The front mech is salvageable and easily bent back into shape with two adjustable spanners

The BB will just need removing, cleaning and putting back together. Bearings are still available and will last another 35 years or so with a bit of maintenance.

HOWEVER! The BB may be a git to get off, the right tools will help:

the pins are replaceable:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

 

[Montague Rhodes]

I have the same issue with a 1986 MTB. The original 27.2 is very tight where a 27.0 fits nicely.

The front mech is salvageable and easily bent back into shape with two adjustable spanners

The BB will just need removing, cleaning and putting back together. Bearings are still available and will last another 35 years or so with a bit of maintenance.

HOWEVER! The BB may be a git to get off, the right tools will help:

the pins are replaceable:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

Thanks, brilliant. I was looking at something very similar on the same site. The adjustable pivot version, about 1/3 of the price.

re. the stem. What's the max length you'd put into a D. Galaxy?

 

[legrandefromage]

Seat post? As long as will fit with a lot of good grease.

 

[Montague Rhodes]

Re:

Touch wood, eh!

I shone a torch down there and there is no rust so here's hoping.

 

[Martin Rattler]

Re:

I am pretty sure that the Galaxy was built with 531 Super Tourist butted tubes, as is my Raleigh Royal which is pretty much a direct equivalent. These should take a 27.2mm seatpost, if you put a smaller diameter one in you will risk damaging the seat tube at the clamp. I suggest that you buy a replacement 27.2 seatpost and give it a good smear of copaslip or similar before assembly. To ease it into the tube you can remove the clamp bolt and gently (careful!) pry open the clamp with a large screwdriver to avoid scoring the post by twisting it in.

 

[legrandefromage]

There'll be some shrinkage when building a frame so not all 27.2 frames are the same.

 

[Montague Rhodes]

Re:

It is 531, frame and fork. Super Tourist frame, afaik.

It's so tight I don't expect to get 30cm of 72.2 stem into the frame however much grease I use.

I've ordered a 400mm 70.0 seat stem - warning duly noted - if that fits too easily then I will get a 72.2 replacement.

 

[hamster]

I would clean out the seat tube carefully. After all the years there is probably some muck and corrosion in there. A twirl of 400 grade wet & dry on a stick will work wonders. Do this with the tube facing down, so the muck falls out not in. A load of PlusGas sprayed inside will help loosen all the crud. Usually I would be wary of this thne working its way into the BB, but this time it's no worry as that has to be serviced too.

While there will be distortion on brazing the frame, 531ST tubing is nominally 27.4, so a 27.2 usually fits. I would be wary of a 27.0 as said.

 

[legrandefromage]

Right - playing around with a 1986 frame with an alleged 27.2 hole, cleaned and lightly washed with machine oil rather than grease.

Brrrrand new 27.2 post doesnt fit - it measures 27.23

Old 27.2 original Strong post goes in tight but measures 27.21

Old 27.0 post goes in 'tight' and sits lovely and measures 27.14! Even though its super clean and polished with no corrosion or gauges.

A tired Race face XYZ 27.2 post goes in and measures a dead straight 27.20 all the way.

The tubing is 531 Club Sport

I'm going back to my rubber room.