Dave Russell - Back to Blue

Midlife said:
Are you going to run mudguards, might wish to braze some eyes on the fork dropouts?
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Been thinking about this. Not a huge fan in general, but may add a shorty one which just needs the brake calliper bolt mount. Rear has got the eyes for a full length one.
 
I take it back… Looking at this pic for more than 10 seconds, it seems like the gaps for the dogs on the freewheel tool have been massively butchered. Something tells me this isn’t going to be coming off 😢

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Old freewheels on new chains seldom work. If all else fails, remove the cover for the bearings, remove the cogs and grip the body in a vice to remove.
 
It’s not been butchered. Those two-prong freewheels can be a massive pain to remove. They chew up like that because the metal is too thin and soft to support the tool properly to loosen it, and it just mashes up instead. The last one I had wasn’t going to come off with the tool so I just welded it up and took it off with a chain whip 👍
 
Jonny69 said:
It’s not been butchered. Those two-prong freewheels can be a massive pain to remove. They chew up like that because the metal is too thin and soft to support the tool properly to loosen it, and it just mashes up instead. The last one I had wasn’t going to come off with the tool so I just welded it up and took it off with a chain whip 👍
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Thanks for the advice. For a first attempt, I was planning to knock up a small block of metal which would slot into the new gaps in the freewheel body. I would drill a hole through it, so I could use the QR to retain it in the slots as you would do with the "normal" tool. Flip the wheel, put the metal block in a vice and crank on the wheel. Overkill, or a good idea?

If it doesn't work, I've also @Midlife suggestion but would also be keen to hear what you welded to what to get your one off. Cheers.

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rmwesley said:
Thanks for the advice. For a first attempt, I was planning to knock up a small block of metal which would slot into the new gaps in the freewheel body. I would drill a hole through it, so I could use the QR to retain it in the slots as you would do with the "normal" tool. Flip the wheel, put the metal block in a vice and crank on the wheel. Overkill, or a good idea?
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That’s about right and should work if you don’t have the slotted tool. Using the quick release is an old trick to hold it all tightly together while you break it loose, so you should do that too.

I welded mine because it wasn’t a soughtafter one and was knackered anyway. I just ran a weld round the inside of the smallest cog where it spins against the body. Then it was all locked up solid and I could just use a big chain whip to get it off.
 
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