Curtis SuperX 2001

[Roasted]

Thanks to @scant for the 24Seven Slack pedals and Schwalbe Table Top tyres.

The pedals were missing a few pins and 1 was snapped level with the pedal, thankfully they weren't too difficult to remove and all replaced with A2 stainless pins.

I always wanted a set of table tops as the tread pattern looks perfect for the riding I do. So when some were available I had to have them, and they lightweight folding ones too.

The finish line is in sight with this one now.




And my 2 current project together.

 

[Roasted]

This weekend I fitted new brake hoses and serviced the fork.

I suspected that the forks didn't have any oil in as the damping adjustment did nothing, and I was right. New seals and fresh 7.5wt oil and they're working well again.




The front brake is a different caliper as it was in better condition that I rebuilt with new pistons and seals. Now they just need a bleed.

 

[unkleGsif]

So nice!
Curtis and Howies Blue is just a perfect, classic combo

My older brother had (still has hanging in his workshop) his original Freestyler(?) frame from circa 1984 maybe... complete with blue skyways etc. The seat tube has rotted out from storage however, and I've told him numerous times that Curtis will repair it for him but he doesn't seem interested

Great build, well done
G

 

[Roasted]

Almost there, but it is fighting me all the way!

I adjusted the length of the hoses and cables so they're tidy now. Bleeding the brakes will be the last job.

The ISCG-05 guide mount arrived so could mount the chain guide and chain. The chain guide is a second hand MRP G2 which was a bit bent and needed some manipulating to clear the chain.

The next issue is the rear mech. I can't get it to shift to the lowest gear, even with the limit screw removed. The frame clearance on the highest gear is also really close, I remember there being some rubbing on the frame before it got painted so think it has always been a problem.

What to do with my rear mech? I think the hanger moves the mech too far out because it sits on the dropout, not in it. So it's 3-5mm further out than it should be. I'd like to find a new hanger with more meat on it so I can file it down to bring the mech inboard a bit. Failing that I may have to restrict shifting to 7 gears or try make my own hanger.

 

[rigidftw]

Looking good.
Why don‘t you remove the two cogs to make the cassette smaller?

 

[wynne]

If I were you I would run a small spacer between the hub axle and the end cap or a washer on the end cap where it steps down to 9mm. Done it lots of times on bikes with hooky spacings.
Or you could run a narrower chain. If my eyes are correct you've got a 9 speed cassette. A narrower 11 speed chain will work fine and give you more clearance.

 

[Roasted]

Thanks for the suggestions, I think I have now solved the problem.

I think I mentioned earlier on that the drop out was a bit tight so the hub axle wouldn't slide in. It also turned out it was slightly out of square too which moved the mech out.

So a bit of tweaking with a crow bar, adjustable wrench and a rubber mallet has straightened everything out, I can now shift to the low gear. Gears have been adjusted and appear to work quite well, I'll decide later if I'll need to restrict it to 8 gears. Next stop is brake bleeding.

 

[Roasted]

So it's pretty much finished, for the time being anyway.

Bled the brakes, put in some hope red pads and put some headset spacers in. She's now ready to go.

This was never going to be a weight weenie build but stuck it on the scales anyway. She's a bit of a tank coming in at 14.3kg (31.5lbs), I was hoping it was under 13.6kg (30lbs). I wonder how I can save 726 grams!

The future changes will be the fork and wheels, I have Z1 QR20s for it that need painting and some Hope Bulb hubs for the wheels.

Weather dependant I'll try get out on it this week to see how it rides.

 

[rigidftw]

I'd say the stem is the single most heavy part on this bike