cursed gears....

Goodness this is a whole thread in its own right I think - very helpful to me, and I just use eyeballing with all my bikes 6-12.
I sense a tool purchase coming on ….
 
My fs bike ghosts shifts halfway through its suspension travel

New chain, new cassette etc etc etc

while it waits for a new shock I will see what happens as the the drivetrain goes through it suspension action
 
Do you need the highly specialist tool to do this right?
No, £4 b and q or free from any mate with any scrap around the workshop.

Just need a sliding t square to hold on it or worse a steel ruler.
 

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My fs bike ghosts shifts halfway through its suspension travel

New chain, new cassette etc etc etc

while it waits for a new shock I will see what happens as the the drivetrain goes through it suspension action
Check the cables aren't hanging up on anything. Had a few bikes like this through my hands over the years. Outer cable pulls tight and just knocks the rear mech over a fraction of a mm...

Can also be as the mech/cage cycles through its motion with chain growth. Amplifies the effect of a tweaked hanger.
 
Goodness this is a whole thread in its own right I think - very helpful to me, and I just use eyeballing with all my bikes 6-12.
I sense a tool purchase coming on ….
Yes, my retro shifted "fine". Until I got the tool. Now it's flawless shifting.
Gone from a fraction of a second of rattling as the chain settles down, to now it's just a click, clonk.
If anything it's better than the 10 and 11 speed stuff I have. (Smaller jumps between gears might help though!)
 
No, £4 b and q or free from any mate with any scrap around the workshop.

Just need a sliding t square to hold on it or worse a steel ruler.
Like the look of that - may have a bash. Presumably need a pillar drill to make sure that bolt is in absolutely plum? The reviews of the £30-50 ones across all brands and sellers describe a lot of play in the tool which has to be accounted for/bodged around. Which appears to defeat the object, especially as probably within/worse than tolerances of my eyeball on my 8 speed fleet! The x-tools one looks more solid, but not sold anymore.
 
Yes, just make sure the holes are square and a very tight fit. I can only just turn the " handle " once its screwed in, you dont want it floppy. And just remember to measure to relative point on the rim, with the wheel in dead straight....i just measure to where the valve hole is on the rim at all points......as all your really doing is aligning the rear mech hole with the sprockets on the wheel thats in at at the time.....not the hole to the frame, hence the need to have a single point of ref on the wheel.

Hope that makes some sense!
 
"Next morning, put it in top gear, adjusters Zero+1, loosen cable bolt and then tighten cable." - IMHO, you did not put the
inner cable precisely in the intended groove to begin with. Easily done with new builds when you are unfamiliar with the parts.
 

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