CODA Magic Crankset/BB Removal

[Barneyballbags]

I've just bought a minty 1st generation Cannondale Raven 4000SL which comes with a set of CODA Magic 900 cranks.

I want to strip it down, and eventually transfer the kit off the frame onto a smaller Raven frame as the large frame (19.5" c-t equivalent) is too big for me (the large frame/forks will be for sale by the way ).

I understand that the Magic Cranks have a specific bottom bracket, and looking at it, it looks like it has external bearings.

I wondered if a special tool was needed to remove the cranks and bottom bracket, or whether a regular external BB remover will do the job? Also I've read that the cranks have self-extracting bolts so no special tool would be required, is that right?

Thanks in advance for the help

 

[one-eyed_jim]

The cranks self-extract with a 6mm allen key.

There was a special splined CODA tool for the bottom bracket cups, but I'm told a Shimano external cup tool will work.

 

[danson67]

Yup, Barney, just need a 6mm Allen key (anti-clockwise) to wind the cranks off.
Unlike Sugino/Shimano/Syncros etc. the bolt stays with the axle, but isn't captive. A left-hand thread pushes the crank off the axle spline.

The splines on the cups are covered by the hoods on the cranks. Neat and tidy, and protected from mud, brilliant:

A few of things to watch:

1: The bearings are so outboard that the drive side cup needs five small cut outs to clear the inner chainring bolts. As you pull the RH crank off, these needs to be lined up with the inner chainring bolts, otherwise they foul.

2: The new Shimano fit splined BB tool is close, but a bit loose. It could slip or marr the Coda splines. I've got an original Magic Motorcycle tool you can borrow (On pain of death :shock: ) PM if you want to borrow it. I've got a manual somewhere, too...

3: I'm not sure of Cannondale timelines, but check the serial numbers...there was a recall of these cranks, 1997/1998 (to add to the recall of 2000/2001 Ravens):

Cannondale has determined that some of the CODA 900 Compact Mountain (94/56mm BCD (bolt circle diameter), CODA 900 Standard Mountain (110/74mm BCD), and CODA 900 Standard Road (130mm BCD) left and right crankarms may be defective.

Some of these may split or separate at the adhesive bond line in the center of the crankarm. Unlike a fatigue crack in an all metal product, this "crack" will not grow slowly, but may fail quickly. This design is dependent upon both sides being properly bonded together, and a failure of this bond line could lead to crank failure with the risk of accident, injury, or death.

These crankarms and/or bicycles (1997 Super V3000, SuperV Downhill 4000, 1998 Raven 3000 and 4000) equipped with these crankarms as original equipment were made during a specific time. We ask that you check your aftermarket crank(s) and/or bicycle(s) equipped with these cranks. It is important that no one ride with these crankarms. They must be replaced.

The potentially defective crankarms have date codes between 7182 and 8214 (manufacturing dates from the 182nd day of 1997 through the 214th day of 199. The date codes are stamped on the inside of each crankarm. Earlier or later date codes are fine.

Not always, though. You'll notice that this split set is well before the recall date...

4: And they can sometimes crack from near the chainring bolt behind the crank arm:

Despite that...I still love them.

All the best,

 

[Barneyballbags]

I've only just noticed that people have replied to this thread!

Thanks for the information - I've got the CODA tool so I'm going to hav a go at them tonight.

 

[Barneyballbags]

Right then,

I've got the cranks off - what a great system!! They came off without even so much as a struggle.

The only thing I'm having a problem with is the drive side BB cup (I've removed the non-drive side and the axle). It seems to be pretty tight.

Is it left hand thread, or normal? The last thing I want to do is bugger them up! A quick response would be appreciated as the Raven is currently sat on my kitchen floor waiting!

Thanks

 

[elite504]

Driveside BB cup is conventional, in that it is left hand threaded, as per any other standard "english" BSA BB thread system.

 

[durab]

Folks. I've same issue here. Having the complete hardware mounted, but need the tool to get the BB cups out. I don't want to damage the cups. Any body might help? Anybody needs a 165 mm road double crank set with complete hardware? Serial is out of the range of the recall ones...

 

[My_Teenage_Self]

where are you located?

 

[durab]

Germany, near Dutch border… Not too close to your place, most likely.

 

[Antstark]

Bbb..There’s a name from the past !