Clunker Schwinn DX 1941 FINISHED page 8

Re: Schwinn DX '40 Clunker [need help page 5]

Thanks, I choose alloy rims and canti's over steel and drums because it it really hard to get a good set of Schwinn rims, Union brakes and Uniroyal Nobby. (all I got was a NOS Nobby, never found another)
How were the first canti's you used compared to the drums? Weight wise it improved a lot with alloy and canti's, but what about breaking power?
 
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The cantilevers didn't fade as much on the long downhills-the drum brakes would build up too much heat inside and pretty soon your hand would go numb from pulling on the lever to little or no effect...
 
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Hey Jamis

I can report that the union front and Exceltoo rear drums on mine have unbelievable, disc brake like stopping power..both have nos pads and are rebuilt.

cant speak for downhill fading however...yet
 
Re: Schwinn DX '40 Clunker [need help page 5]

They sure look powerful, but fading when you're going downhill fast doesn't sound assuring.
On the other hand, I've had some scary moments with canti's too. :)
When is your clunker 100% ready?
 
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Jamis Diablo":w8wwui50 said:
When is your clunker 100% ready?

its done in storage for winter now..here is last pic. since then i have fitted the black ano arms and wired it up..my wife loves it!
 

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Any of you Klunker guys know how to stop the Brooks Saddles from moving,ive really jumped on the spanners to tighten he pinch bolt.Dont want to over do it
 
Re: Schwinn DX '40 Clunker [need help page 5]

I don't know, maybe sanding both seatpost as saddle and use some mounting paste they use for carbon parts?
 
Re: Schwinn DX '40 Clunker [need help page 5]

Sorry its the actual brookes clamp on the seat that i cannot tighten any more,the seat moves fore and aft.
 
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So, almost 6 years after buying the frame and most of the parts I'm finally going to build it. :)

These are the parts I'm building it with, had a few changes over the years.

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