Decal sets for this model are available on Ebay.
Carlton Super Course needing some love - car boot find
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sherlylock
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Re: Re:
Yeah, spotted those. Resisting all temptation to strip the paint off and repaint it.....maybe later. It would need Reynolds 531 decals too, Raleigh rim stickers and crank stickers (both available from a guy in Oz I found this morning). A proper repaint/re-decal resto would increase it's resale value, something to consider I guess (and I really enjoy the resto process).
Shame it's not bigger - I've seen a few completed Super Courses and they look fantastic - would love to ride it (comfortably)...... so If anyone has a 24" Super Course frame drop me a message!
Thanks - It's starting to take shape already - looking forward to seeing it complete. The wheels are a daunting prospect though - proper rusty!
Spokesmann":ba1ns41d said:
Yeah, spotted those. Resisting all temptation to strip the paint off and repaint it.....maybe later. It would need Reynolds 531 decals too, Raleigh rim stickers and crank stickers (both available from a guy in Oz I found this morning). A proper repaint/re-decal resto would increase it's resale value, something to consider I guess (and I really enjoy the resto process).
Shame it's not bigger - I've seen a few completed Super Courses and they look fantastic - would love to ride it (comfortably)...... so If anyone has a 24" Super Course frame drop me a message!
Midlife":ba1ns41d said:Thanks for the frame number, 1981
Cool - how does the part number break down to tell you the exact date. I had it as a 1980 (just by Googling) so I knew it was around that year. Did they make this particular colourway for many years?
Shaun
mAdam":ba1ns41d said:
Thanks - It's starting to take shape already - looking forward to seeing it complete. The wheels are a daunting prospect though - proper rusty!
Midlife
Retro Wizard
From 1972-3 Raleigh and Carlton had a joint numbering system, in your case
W=Worksop
P=November
1=1981
The rest of the digits are the unique serial number
When Worksop closed in 1982-3 Raleigh nicked the W for Worksop and used it for frames made in Nottingham..... cheeky!
Shaun
W=Worksop
P=November
1=1981
The rest of the digits are the unique serial number
When Worksop closed in 1982-3 Raleigh nicked the W for Worksop and used it for frames made in Nottingham..... cheeky!
Shaun
sherlylock
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Wow - some good info there! Thought the W might indicate Worksop.....as for the rest I had no idea.
sherlylock
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Front mech cleaned up and refitted. Struggled to get the adjusting screws to budge unfortunately so I'll need to investigate these further.
Spent some time removing the manky old bar tape. There's a fair bit of corrosion under the tape so I guess it's been stood out in the rain or in damp conditions. Luckily it's all under where the new tape will sit so should look fine when re-taped.
Proper horrible time consuming job removing it.....
Started investigating the wheels also last night. Wish me luck breathing new life into these!
Managed to get the cogs off the freewheel with 2x chainwhips.
To remove the freewheel do I use a tool on the larger set of slots? What tool do I need to buy (are they available new)?
How serviceable is the freehub? Can it be dismantled to be inspected and regreased? It was locked solid when I got it and is now moving and clicking like it should after a flush with GT85 but still feels a little gritty. I notice there are other slots for other tools on the hub - presumably this is how it all comes apart (in a shower of springs and ball bearings)......
Spent some time removing the manky old bar tape. There's a fair bit of corrosion under the tape so I guess it's been stood out in the rain or in damp conditions. Luckily it's all under where the new tape will sit so should look fine when re-taped.
Proper horrible time consuming job removing it.....
Started investigating the wheels also last night. Wish me luck breathing new life into these!
Managed to get the cogs off the freewheel with 2x chainwhips.
To remove the freewheel do I use a tool on the larger set of slots? What tool do I need to buy (are they available new)?
How serviceable is the freehub? Can it be dismantled to be inspected and regreased? It was locked solid when I got it and is now moving and clicking like it should after a flush with GT85 but still feels a little gritty. I notice there are other slots for other tools on the hub - presumably this is how it all comes apart (in a shower of springs and ball bearings)......
Midlife
Retro Wizard
You need a 2 prong suntour tool to remove the freewheel (body), It's not a freehub just a normal older hub hub with a thread. The thin ring outboard removes to shower you with pawls and ball bearings.
If the freewheel is moving OK then I'd leave it as they can be a mare to get off, the only reason to take them off is if you are replacing it.
The Axle can be removed and the bearings regreased with the freewheel in situ by removing the non drive side cone and lock nut.
Hope that makes sense
Shaun
If the freewheel is moving OK then I'd leave it as they can be a mare to get off, the only reason to take them off is if you are replacing it.
The Axle can be removed and the bearings regreased with the freewheel in situ by removing the non drive side cone and lock nut.
Hope that makes sense
Shaun
sherlylock
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Midlife":25scdz9x said:
Yep - all makes sense. Doing a little research this morning I think I have a Suntour New Winner freewheel and the general consensus seems to be not to take them apart. I'd really like to get some lubrication of some sort back in there after flushing with GT85 though - if I separate it off the hub I guess an oil bath would work well?
What is the best lubrication to use for freewheels?
torqueless
Senior Retro Guru
Re:
Inside that freewheel you will find two races full of little balls, and between them a pair of pawls held by captive springs. To get at them, you can tap the (inner) lockring free with a hammer and appropriate screwdriver if you are careful. There's an arrow and 'unscrew' engraved on the ring, because it has right hand thread and unscrews counter-clockwise, unlike most other freewheels.
I'm actually considering adopting the practice of loosening my freewheel on its hub thread every day- they are such a bugger to get off.
Not for the first time I find myself at odds with the general consensus.. :| I bet that freewheel would benefit immensely from a proper service, and probably fresh balls.
Inside that freewheel you will find two races full of little balls, and between them a pair of pawls held by captive springs. To get at them, you can tap the (inner) lockring free with a hammer and appropriate screwdriver if you are careful. There's an arrow and 'unscrew' engraved on the ring, because it has right hand thread and unscrews counter-clockwise, unlike most other freewheels.
Under 'normal' circumstances Shaun's advice would be sound, but chances are you are going to want to replace those rusty spokes, and it is a bloody nuisance to do that with the freewheel stuck in the way. Imo the best technique for removing obstinate freewheels is to strip them down completely, leaving just the inner body on the hub. On a two-pawl freewheel (this one is), the pawl-housings offer a much better vice-grip/leverage point than you get by using the two-prong removal tool in the slots. Plus-gas is your friend, as always! Just try not to damage the pawl housings.
Imo it depends on how often you want to lubricate them. Oil, if you are going to remove (and oil) the block frequently. If not, light grease for the balls, with just a smear on the ratchet and pawls.
I'm actually considering adopting the practice of loosening my freewheel on its hub thread every day- they are such a bugger to get off.
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